The fashion world, terrified of war, wanted to see the fall-winter 2022-23 shows as manifestos of resilience. While highlighting key figures in the industry.
Who is Chitose Abe, the influential creator of Sacai?
His latest collaboration with American equipment maker Nike was a tidal wave, especially with generations Z and Y, fans of his hybrid sneakers featuring a double sole, the double Swoosh (the Nike comma), and a double tongue. Yet Chitose Abe, the founder and creator of Sacai (pronounced “Sacai”), is as discreet as her brand is hype. Born in 1965 in Gifu, Japan, a graduate of Nagoya fashion school, she broke her teeth at Comme des Garçons with Rei Kawakubo before launching her label in 1999 and then presenting her collections in 2012 at the Paris Fashion Week. † His conceptual vision of fashion – deconstructed-reconstructed urban clothing has been appealing for two decades. Just like his well felt collaborations, including the recent and very successful with APC (in 2021) or Astier de Villatte (2022).
The latest, sealed with jeweler Cartier, was unveiled on the catwalk during Paris Fashion Week. “Cartier has never collaborated with fashion designers. So this was the chance. Especially since it is the 100th anniversary of the Trinity ring, which I have reinterpreted here to give birth to a new creative proposal.” says Chitose Abe after the show. The result is expressed in six pieces, including a ring, a bracelet, earrings and a necklace. An intelligence of the product that explains the success of the Japanese designer, owner of her brand. AF
Matthieu Blazy, the new kid around
Insiders know this name. At the age of 37, this former pupil of La Cambre went to Maison Martin Margiela, Celine (Phoebe Philo era) and Calvin Klein (Raf Simons era). Appointed head of the artistic direction of Bottega Veneta at the end of 2021, the Belgian designer – who has been part of the creative team since 2020 – presented a particularly remarkable first fashion show in Milan.
With this collection he defines the grammar of a timeless silhouette with original proportions, which focuses on Italy in general (Carlo Mollino’s erotic Polaroids and the work of futuristic artist Umberto Boccioni) and Venice (urban origin of the claw) in particular. “We wondered a lot to find out who Bottega Veneta’s wife was. We are first and foremost a leather goods store. We wanted to reduce this silhouette to something very basic, like the first pass: a white tank top, a bag and a pair of jeans that are actually not denim but nubuck, edited with a trompe-the-eye technique. With this idea of movement in mind, the bag is not made to stay indoors, but to travel.” notes Matthieu Blazy at the end of the show. Bet won, for the label and for the designer. AF
Ferrari’s fashion ambitions
Last June, Exor, the holding company of the Agnelli clan, presented in Maranello the first Ferrari ready-to-wear parade event for men and women. After Porsche and Bugatti, the emblematic luxury car brand comes into fashion and is part of the Milan women’s fashion week calendar.
Past at Dolce & Gabbana and Giorgio Armani, artistic director Rocco Iannone deciphers the project and its aesthetic biases: “We had to find a point of contact between our main activity, cars and fashion. This goes through a very design aesthetic, pure lines and colors like Modena’s palettes of red or yellow, so named because it is the hometown of Enzo Ferrari. Once this foundation was laid, I focused on the concepts of performance, speed and technology for the second collection, including when researching materials. † Some fabrics are made from recycled plastic bottles, a project in line with Ferrari’s broader corporate policy of aiming for carbon neutrality within ten years. AF
Perfume of diversity
The Belgian Dries Van Noten – whose brand has been part of the Spanish cosmetics group Puig since 2018 – presents a “Beauty” line. A diversification that is often lucrative for fashion houses, thought out here with accuracy and creativity. Ten scents were created by as many well-known noses. Daniela Andrier, Louise Turner, Nicolas Bonneville… played on improbable associations such as the names given to the perfumes – Cannabis Patchouli, Rosa Carnivora, Neon Garden… – and packaging rich in colors and contrasting patterns, such as prêt -à-porter collections from the Flemish designer.
These recycled two-material bottles are designed to be refilled or converted into soliflore. They come with an assortment of fifteen lipsticks for which four different refillable cases are also available. As well as a range of small accessories – handbag mirror, lip brush, etc. – that accompany beauty rituals. FM-B.