a moving man!

The men’s fashion for next fall has just been presented, in four capital letters. As a planetary thermometer and a means of expressing the zeitgeist, fashion knows better than anyone how many questions arise. Since you are all familiar with these questions (eco-responsibility, overproduction, etc.), I’m going to focus on one of them, which is lesser known, and which involves inventiveness: should we continue to create desires that are doomed to planned obsolescence? † You know, exactly the same as household appliances, but much faster… In other words, why bring things into fashion when they have to go out of style?

I often hear this comment: Can’t we just live with what we have? † Like everyone else, I cherish this dream. But I always get caught up. Not by the devil, but by life. Because clothing also expresses what moves in us. What develops in us. What lives. One idea: If men’s fashion is currently changing the most, it’s no coincidence, but because the idea of ​​masculinity is in the midst of a revolution. And don’t assume fashion is trying to make men out of it (I know some people feel that way). No, everything is taken into account.

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“Why do men always dress the same? Sophie Fontanel answers you

Changing mindset is not easy. I often see the solid conformism of my followers on Instagram. In particular, during fashion week, I posted the image of two 19-year-old young men, business students and fashion schools, wearing pleated skirts in addition to their suits. “It’s going a little too far” wrote one woman in a comment. But first of all, if we don’t go too far at 19, when are we going too far?

Egon Lab Fall Winter 2022 Fashion Show (EgonLab)

I’m asking you. And where is the problem? I ask you too. Women do wear pants. Why would the eventual feminization of men be a threat? What happens to menswear AND men: it opens.

Trucker beaded collar and bib

Etro autumn winter 2022 fashion show (photo Etro)
Etro autumn winter 2022 fashion show (photo Etro)

At the Egonlab fashion show we saw skirts (straight or pleated) on trousers. At Etro kind of corsets, but in reality very soft, knitted, and with a zipper like a trucker collar that pleats the waist, worn over shirts. “It’s too feminine”, someone responded, forgetting that cummerbunds have been around for a while and are traditionally masculine. Valette Studio, a very young brand, also sprinkles pearls on the front of a shirt… a tuxedo!

Dolce & Gabbana Fashion Show (Monica Feudi)
Dolce & Gabbana Fashion Show (Monica Feudi)

I don’t see a single command in the swarm of ideas we’ve seen over the past few days. Just options. An incentive, of course. A way of saying it won’t kill you, if you’re a man, to almost add wings to your Perfecto (Dolce & Gabbana, a brand that captures the zeitgeist with jubilant bonhomie), to wear the equivalent of golden yellow satin pajamas (Prada), the same as Sophia Loren’s in “The Countess from Hong Kong” (director: Charlie Chaplin), and accidentally stolen from whom in this famous film? To her lover, eh!

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Prada autumn winter 2022 show (photo Monica Feudi)
Prada autumn winter 2022 show (photo Monica Feudi)

And of course we don’t die from having the sides/scarves of the hat falling to the floor (seen at Blue Marble). It doesn’t hang anymore “like the consolation prize of a neck” – according to the hilarious description of a similar scarf in an episode of Jeeves (PG Wodehouse) – it’s just cool. Yes, that word. You won’t die from being nearly naked under your coat, which suddenly turns into a dress.

Loewe autumn winter 2022 fashion show (Loe)
Loewe autumn winter 2022 fashion show (Loe)

That’s at Loewe. All of Jonathan Anderson’s work in this house this season revolves around what a man allows himself to show. Do you think that man has all the rights? Look at his communal locker room and you’ll see that no.

Who’s talking about haute couture?

A scissor staircase that liberates

And then watch the Fendi show. Silvia Venturini Fendi may think: “Here we are going to cut the top of a suit as if it were a jacket. † And she goes through a pair of scissors, and she gets a result that clears the neck, a result that you’re not going to see at the bank, not even telecommuting, but that’s liberating.

Fendi autumn winter 2022 show (photo Fendi)
Fendi autumn winter 2022 show (photo Fendi)

This is how you move the sliders. Fendi’s monogrammed knee socks are funny, but the ear and neck jewelry is already mailed like a letter. Already this sweater with V-neck, which at the same time has a little round neck (indescribable), it is there, possible.

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Human Journal of Fashion: “I Can’t Project Myself”

It can go much further. If you do my job, you can watch a show like Y/Project’s, especially extreme with its twisted clothes, as if it’s crumpled by a thread, born of a hand that can’t accept the banality of things. I think it’s beautiful, and I’m not the only one. When an imagination like Glenn Martens’s no longer crosses borders, we have cause for concern.

Y/Project fashion show (photo Filippo Fior)
Y/Project fashion show (photo Filippo Fior)

And even if they don’t play with extremes, creators try to guide a change. It can be done gently, and we’ve seen a lot this season with penetrating elements of sophistication. Like gates to daring. So that we don’t die of boredom anymore. The masterstroke is Dior’s, where Kim Jones, referring to a conference of Christian Dior at the Sorbonne in 1955, leads this perhaps unruly man to unprecedented sophistication.

Dior Autumn Winter 2022 show (photo Dior)
Dior Autumn Winter 2022 show (photo Dior)

The color range is off-white, gray, sky blue, greige… these are the colors of the wood pigeon in the sky of Paris, pierced with a clearing. Soft colors but (if I dare say) masculine and comforting. However, the blue shirt is embroidered, the sneakers have made love to Birkenstocks, the front darts of the jackets are topstitched, as if it were just a frame (sublime), and the charms escape from the beret. It makes you want to dare, because it is dosed.

“be what they want to be”

Jil Sander Fall Winter 2022 Fashion Show (Jil Sander)
Jil Sander Fall Winter 2022 Fashion Show (Jil Sander)

The same reasoned seduction with Jil Sander, where the two artistic directors, Lucie and Luke Meier, achieve an alchemy between different clothing cultures (there is even a kind of knitted fez on the heads of the models) that sounds like a manual for modernity. Plus they claim they care ” tools “ individuals to help them “to be what they want to be”

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Fuzzy formula, but not so much. Many men would dream of going a little further and staying on the dock. Fear: Something as simple as a scarf that comes on a jacket as a makeshift belt (the magnificence of this Jil Sander look) is next to nothing, isn’t it? But do you know many men who agree to take him out like that?

Conformity, I tell you!

Ami was created by providing this little gap between boredom and fantasy, which makes all the difference. The talent of Alexandre Mattiussi, founder of the brand, is that he understood that all the work of the men’s suits of the 70s-80s (Nino Cerruti, Giorgio Armani…), and which had already carried out a revolution, softness and lightness in menswear could be done differently today.

Friend (photo Alessandro Lucioni)
Friend (photo Alessandro Lucioni)

The casualness of the Ami clothes was a happy, youthful and epidermal shock. The charm still works, and that’s where you need to be if you want to be taken by the hand. My father’s big mottled gray coat, too long but really long just right… it’s with Ami.

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Courreges autumn winter 2022 fashion show (photo Courrèges)
Courreges autumn winter 2022 fashion show (photo Courrèges)

Courrèges could also fulfill this role of “new bases” in the coming years. Nicolas Di Felice, through modest transcendence, received the DNA of Courrèges, in this way rethinking the world as a neat, clean space. Like a refuge, in short. The materials are dry under the finger, it holds. Or else, it’s a furry coat. Everything has an interesting consistency. Skateboard pants have the elegance of a rice powder suitable for going to Cannes.

Ordinary masculinity?

Louis Gabriel Nouchic
Louis Gabriel Nouchic

Everyone is gnawing at the bone of lambda masculinity. Louis-Gabriel Nouchi is an interesting case as he juggles between bizarre and basic. There is a tie, but it is not tied, but is held with a clip to the heart. A few glances later we see the skin towards the hips, almost a ‘body’ for men. And definitely a dress. Louis Gabriel walks around and questions the whole idea of ​​sexy, of provocation.

This interrogation can also be accomplished in another way. At Hermès, Véronique Nichanian examines every year how a simple sentence – subject, verb, complement – ​​can be memorable. How to awaken desire in this changing world. His response is a calm man, as if that foundation needs to be laid. And she’s right. She doesn’t put the scarf on his belt over his coat, but hangs it around a boy’s neck, like a newspaper boy, and it’s already obvious.

Hermès autumn/winter 2022 show (photo Hermès)
Hermès autumn/winter 2022 show (photo Hermès)

His role is decisive because so many men (with a certain point of view in Monica Feudig) trust Hermès. When she shortens a pair of trousers, when she puts a brooch on the lapel of a coat, when she enlarges a crotch, when she offers a man a handbag, she evangelizes. That is very important, because in the higher regions the conformism is even greater.

The sequel after the ad

There will always be men who want to be noticed at the same time, without too much change. It reminds me of Lemaire. Christophe Lemaire and Sarah-Linh Tran know a thing or two about this tour de force. From year to year there are changes in Lemaire, but not visible to the naked eye. Every time a new desire is added, for example this year a white Shetland sweater (if I’m not mistaken), and it works through aesthetic coherence.

Lemaire Autumn Winter 2022 show (photo Monica Feudi)
Lemaire Autumn Winter 2022 show (photo Monica Feudi)

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Please. It’s fall-winter 2022 fashion… How can we not end this inventory with the Louis Vuitton show? It could have been called “Like a Virgil”. The recently deceased Virgil Abloh has brought Vuitton and fashion a lot. The nitpickers thought he stole a little too many ideas here and there, but we live in a time of this kind. Everything gets mixed up. It mixes, it samples.

A large group tries to make the same bags or jackets as the others. We can growl anyway, that’s the way it is. It’s something completely different on this show: the beauty of the looks, with intact Virgil Abloh’s idealism, his desire to have children, his bet on the possible enchantment of the street, his love for a princely side that we could have it all. It was there during this show, even without him. And that raised an important question: Could Virgil Abloh’s contribution shape the DNA of Louis Vuitton men today? Can we build the identity of a brand from this for the coming years? It tries. But we don’t have to cry every time…

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