(AFP) – Like a fashion industry optimistic about the outbreak of the pandemic, London Fashion Week, dedicated to the Fall/Winter 2022-2023 collections, which ended on Tuesday, was marked by fashion shows characterized by color and sensuality.
Here are five things that stood out during the five days of parades, in person or virtually.
– Young creators –
In a city known for its fashion schools, London Fashion Week is a major showcase for young designers, this year taking center stage in the absence of established names such as Victoria Beckham and Burberry, while punk fashion icon Vivienne Westwood opted for a short video presentation. .
Victoria Beckham, who in an interview complained about the cost of hosting the shows, surprisingly appeared in the front row at Supriya Lele, known for her sultry, sheer designs.
The collections on display were not short on sex appeal, with designers embracing the current mini skirt trend, from Westwood’s punk tartan to the pastel faux fur of emerging Asian-American designer Chet Lo.
Known for its ultra-revealing dresses worn by celebrities like Kylie Jenner and Dua Lipa, British brand Poster Girl held its first après-ski themed show, featuring neon pieces, such as embellished puffed faux fur coats.
Even more minimalistic, the young Albanian designer Nensi Dojaka stood out with her string dresses that are reminiscent of lingerie pieces.
– Ornaments –
Other designers have opted for elaborate ornaments – fringes, floral appliqués, Swarovski crystals and sequins.
At the Chinese-born designer Yuhan Wang, models wore ethereal false eyelashes to match their outfits. One of them, covered in a faux fur coat, hugged a real long-haired cat in her arms, because “women are like cats”, Yuhan Wang explained, “We can be really cute sometimes, but sometimes we bite”.
Some have been inspired by history, such as the Irish Simone Rocha for her voluminous dresses reminiscent of the Victorian era.
Rising star SS Daley, short for Steven Stokey-Daley, described by GQ magazine as “one of the most exciting voices in British menswear,” staged a show reminiscent of the early 20th century, featuring baggy trousers and knitted tank tops, reflecting his concerns about British class society.
– Diversity –
Diversity was shown more, with white, black or Asian models taking part in the parades.
Ozwald Boateng, former creative director of Givenchy Homme, the first black designer to hold the position in a luxury home, celebrated “the influence of black culture in the UK over the past 40 years” in a parade at the Savoy Hotel.
Boateng, born to Ghanaian parents, admitted that in the past he had a habit of denying racism in interviews.
But the murder of “George Floyd has had an impact on me and I think we are now in a time where we can finally really say what matters,” the big name of British fashion told AFP, known for his lively character. to design.
Young British designer Saul Nash explored his country’s Afro-Caribbean culture and reflected on his Guyanese heritage.
Others, such as Poster Girl, Nensi Dojaka, Supriya Lele and Yuhan Wang, have tried to break weight tabs by using more chubby models.
“Every season I learn more about it and how to dress all the shapes,” Dojaka told The Times. “For me, strength comes from diversity,” Wang said.
– Sustainable –
Sustainable fashion was also fully in the spotlight at this Fashion Week. Irish designer Robyn Lynch has re-appropriated unsold items from American sports and casual wear brand Columbia. The young designer Matty Bovan reworked existing clothes from other designers.
LVMH-MUST HENNESSY LOUIS VUITTON