On the runways of fashion week, this je-ne-sais quoi that hits the mark

After two years of pandemic punctuated by incarceration and telecommuting, formal suits and experimental outfits seem to be losing ground on the catwalks. This season, many brands are offering a simple wardrobe, brightened up with small distinctive details. “Nobody wants to take the lead now. People are looking for everyday clothes with dog! †, says Isabel Marant. How to reach it? For her, the jeans are baggy, very supple, washed and re-dyed… in an orange-red. His sheepskin jacket merges with the hooded sweater. The whole forms a comfortable and cheerful collection, enhanced by mixing prints (stripes, checks, camouflage).

Isabel funny.
Headquarters.

In this area, Pierre Mahéo, of Officine Générale, has nothing left to prove: every season, he varies his pragmatic wardrobe with a touch, in order to maintain the desire. “I know others would turn everything upside down, but I stick with well cut, well made, that you want to touch”, he defends. In fact, it is always by touching his clothes that one understands its value. For fall 2022, he added cashmere to knits, tried an exciting indigo on a velvet ensemble, spent weeks choosing his materials so that an olive shade looked exactly the same on the wool of a coat and the scarf worn with it makes some coats. or pants swell.

Jil Sander, discrete singular

In fact, the overall streetwear look is often put on the back burner, in favor of a classic silhouette (suit, workwear) with a dash of daring. The American-Portuguese duo Ernest W. Baker, still offering impeccable 1970s jackets and trousers, improved this season with quilted suits, pullovers with loops and a jacket with a faux fox belt, notes: “A few seasons ago, buyers were hesitant: yes, maybe, to see, let’s talk about it again Today, our aim is more in line with the times, we sell more easily. †

Ernest W. Baker.

At Jil Sander, the designer duo Luke and Lucie Meier also lean towards this idea of ​​a simple yet sublimated wardrobe. The suits are smooth and without buttons, the pants are tucked into leather boots, a crochet knitted neckband dresses the whole. The large herringbone wool coats have a wide belt and are decorated with an eye-catching gold metal plate. The pace is simple yet unique.

Jill Sander.
The major.

“We want silhouettes that we don’t feel the effort to do”, explain designers Sarah-Linh Tran and Christophe Lemaire. Everything seems fluid and natural with these Lemaire men dressed in structured sweaters and jackets, with slightly cropped pants, all in beige, black or ochre. “Having an intriguing look without making the clothes stand out: that’s style”summarize the makers.

Paul Smith makes movies

To make an overly classic wardrobe stand out, having fun making it bigger remains a tried and true recipe. The turtlenecks and long coats of Rémi Bats and Hugues Fauchard, the duo Uniform, which produces in France from surplus textiles (95%) and this season works around the figure of the volcanologist, envelop the bodies, swallow heads. Likewise, Israeli Hed Mayner is blowing up his coats and jackets like never before, to the point that they look like buried comforters. “I wanted to recompose ordinary silhouettes, but give them a dramatic effect with an almost architectural gesture”he explains.

Uniform.
Paul Smith.

“We are not like the large groups: we do not mainly sell bags, said straight out a Paul Smith in excellent shape. People really live in our clothes. † He watches the New Wave, discovered cinema “at 20 in a small venue in Nottingham”and 80s movies.Breathless or from Jules and Jimzigzag effect taken from the “red room” of Twin Peaks on boots or mesh, blue à la David Lynch, jacket with pockets “director” to slide in his glasses and his screenplay… Here we see the slightly flared trousers that no longer have a belt buckle, there a suit but cut for the first time in a faded nylon. “Practical, portable. And then, did you notice? No logos! †

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