make your back round and beautiful – Liberation

Sad statements were not enough, the side “and meanwhile the case continues” had become unbearable in terms of image. On Friday, faced with the intensification of the Russian attack on Ukraine, the beachheads in the sector have moved. LVMH, Kering, Hermès and Chanel have all announced closure “temporary” from their stores in Russia. The gesture is especially important on the part of LVMH, which has 120 stores and 3,500 employees in the country. This French movement joins that of other major international brands such as Ikea (which caused a huge influx before closing), Nike and H&M. Meanwhile in Paris fashion week continues and turns around.

Rick Owens, technical and feeling

Restraint and strictness do not prevent the grandiose. Rick Owens proved that Thursday afternoon at the Palais de Tokyo, the great wizard that he is. Against the background of Malher’s Fifth Symphony, the American (based in Paris) set up a mystical procession: vestals 3.0 spread smoke (mixed with a fragrance created with the Aésop brand) through types of censers. Sometimes you didn’t see anything at all, or just phantasmagoric silhouettes, the appointed photographers were furious at being reduced to unemployment afterward, but it was beautiful. We had the impression of being immersed in a forest that was won by the mist from which enchanted creatures emerged. It could also be seen as a metaphor for a world that has become darker and more opaque since Putin launched the attack on Ukraine, although this parade could not be conceived at the last minute.

As is often the case with Owens (who also designs furniture), the wardrobe seemed sculpted, from ready-to-wear to echoes of haute couture. Ultra-pointy shoulders, iridescent evening dresses with lavish draperies and asymmetries, down jackets-cocoons, huge capes, jackets and blouses with an amazing almond green, in goat hair… Owens plays with shapes and in fact fashion designers are often double body architects. His great strength is not only a great technician with a dazzling aesthetic. His clothes, like his fashion shows, necessarily convey sentiment, even if it is disorderly given the radicalism that is sometimes at work – he is known for his zombie-like models, his often dark high masses with industrial soundtracks, his prism underground . Thursday he was especially breathless and moving. “Fashion has always been a way of communicating and expressing value systems, he then said:† Value systems related to physical beauty and status, as well as moral beauty. In times of threat and conflict, the way we present ourselves to others can express what we support and what we strive for: moving forward in the world and treating others with empathy and kindness. A little bit of Owens in this world of bullies – hello, Putin.

Loewe’s Touch

For Loewe’s side, the reportedly very brilliant, cultured and conceptual Jonathan Anderson announces a “reactive fashion, stripped down to raw primitiveness with the thrill of perversion”. The result is much more beautiful than we could have imagined at the time, like these large pumpkins sitting in the middle of the Paris Tennis Club – creations of British visual artist Anthea Hamilton. “Their large soft and warm shapes invite touch and the possibility to lie down on their quilted contours, as objects full of surreal potential and humor, but also full of beauty”specified a press release after the parade.

It is above all the clothes that we want to touch, caress, examine closely, especially those made of latex that have the appearance of a second skin. The molded leather dresses, the transparent tops to reveal the nipples, the molded felt bustiers, the draped dresses, the balloon bras: Anderson plays with the female anatomy, emphasizes it, accompanies it, plays with the materials – latex, but also leather , felt, tweed, mesh, 3D printed fiber, silk, resin. And he does so with humour, especially through trompe-l’oeil. Mention the car dresses – the bottom of which is molded on a car body. Those with breastplates with lips naturally invite you to kiss, while another suggests the body embraced by two hands. We see Salvador Dalí in the one strewn with small balloons. A pair of pumps appear to have candy apple heels. We smile, realizing perfectly the mastery at work and the possible levels of appreciation – Anderson pushes but seduces, dares without crushing through the famous ‘vision of the maker’, his wardrobe is both disruptive and communicative. Impressive intelligence.

Isabel Marant, forever young

If there is a festive brand that radiates lightness as a banner with bright colors, sequins and mini dresses, it is Isabel Marant. This season, the Parisian designer wants simplicity and produces a mixed collection that is less enticing than usual, with the music of Blonde Redhead in the headphones. She has also chosen, and that bodes well given the geopolitical context, not to celebrate in the gardens of the Palais Royal (1st arrondissement of Paris) after her parade as she is used to.

The collection therefore proposes procrastination. Even the jewel pieces (like this top made entirely of rhinestones) are paired with wide pants to break up the overloaded effect. We proudly wear (as often in this fashion week) thigh high boots, sometimes in “Persian carpet” material (can’t wait to see what it will look like on the street), and artisan leather overalls, coral bombers as long as coats, parachute canvas pants and lots of mesh, sometimes very hairy. On the boys’ side, the nostalgic copies the style of the series’ heroes Weird stuff, in a total denim look and Velcro sneakers. Isabel Marant, who never stops opening boutiques in the four corners of the world, focuses both on the youth of 2022 and the “adults” who do not want to see themselves grow old.

Chloé, chic and strict ethics

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With Chloé it is always a calm, assertive woman, without nostalgia, who wins. Artistic director of the brand since December 2020, while running her own label, Uruguayan Gabriela Hearst infuses this DNA with her ecological beliefs: she is a long-time advocate of an ethical choice of materials, traceability, the reduction of carbon footprint or recycling , and each of its collections is accompanied by a press release describing in particular the origin of the materials and their environmental impact – excerpt from this season’s: “73% of the mesh is estimated to have less impact; more than 60% of the cashmere portion is recycled and Chloé continues to promote the use of unused stocks.” For the current collection, she indicates that she spoke in particular with the travel writer Isabella Tree, who in a book talked about how she and her husband transformed land that had been depleted by intensive agriculture into an area where nature, fauna and flora can grow naturally. his rights. A cure.

Presented in a conservatory in the André Citroën Park, with a sand track in front of the stage, the Chloé wardrobe extols refined luxury, with a touch of moderate exoticism. Leather is in majesty, declined in dresses, skirts, tops, coats, jackets, trench coats. The colored pieces (chocolate, camel) are beautiful, hieratic. The knitting comes to warm them, colored (palettes of red, orange, brown, blue), mentioning the passages that represent mountainous landscapes. We like to find the huge ponchos that Hearst likes and that call for walking in all weathers, besides all the girls walk more or less flat, in hiking boots, cowboy boots or riding boots, she is a sober woman. preferred cocktails. The show closes with Amber Valletta, majestic in her crossover and belted patchwork jacket.

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