Monday whispers: a valley of gastronomy, Dijon and its international city, Michel Roth in Ferrières-en-Brie, Mélanie Serre in Monaco, Alan Geaam in Marseille, Jeff Têtedoie and his family in Lyon, Meneau in Chantilly, Denon in Baudelaire, Goupil at Le Quellec, Angelo Ferrigno or the new wave of Burgundy | Gilles Pudlowski’s blog

A valley for gastronomy

Villa Baulieu in Aix © GP

It is an enchanting road very similar to the old Nationale 7 and which tells the flavors of France through its gastronomic richness. From Burgundy to the Rhone Valley, to the Côte d’Azur, that is, from Dijon to Cassis via Marseille, Aix-en-Provence, Valence and Lyon, the ” food valley“has taken off with hotel partners, restaurateurs, winegrowers, producers, food traders and passionate guides who in turn praise their region and its treasures. Between mustard, black currant, gingerbread, sausages, andouillettes, rosettes, nougats, calissons or bouillabaisse, it is a whole part of the wealth of gastronomic flavors offered to the curious and passionate traveler. A tour of the Lyonnais corks or an odyssey to the Paul Bocuse rooms so rich in high-quality craftsmen, a lesson in good things with Léonard Parli to understand the glory of candied fruit mixed with almonds, a tasting at the Toren Philippe le Bon above the palace of the dukes of Burgundy, just to contemplate the roofs of Dijon, gaze at the great hills (of Nuits and Beaune) and pommard and volnay, aloxe-corton and savigny, nuits-saint-georges and gevrey -chambertin: among other things, this is what this gastronomic valley promises you, which brings together the regions of Burgundy-Franche-Comté, Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, Provence-Côte d’Azur and the department of Gard in Occitanie with partners such as the Villa Baulieu in Aix, the Pic house in Valence, the Café du Jura in Lyon, the Côte d’Or in Saulieu, the Mulot & Petitjean gingerbread house in Dijon or the Mathieu chapel of Côté Fish in Grau du Roi, among many others . Welcome to gourmet France!

Dijon and its international city

CIGV © GP

It opens on May 6, 2022 and will be the gastronomic event of the year. The international city of gastronomy and wine of Dijon rises from the ground, on 6 ha, near the station and the center, served by tram, in the former Hôtel-Dieu appreciated by a daring architectural rehabilitation, multiplication of experiences, varied and quality exhibitions (including one dedicated to pastry and sponsored by Pierre Hermé, which looks great). The place impresses, combines old and modern with audacity, built and rebuilt by Eiffage, with the architects Anthony Béchu and Alain-Charles Perrot, with a cooking school stamped Ferrandi, a school of Burgundy wines, food shops, a gourmet bookshop managed by Deborah Dupont , an expert in the genre, plus a large cellar and three restaurants signed Eric Pras, the three-star MOF de Lameloise in Chagny, managed by the Epicure group. There are nine more Pathé cinemas, start-ups of Village by CA and its Vitagora locomotives, plus Foodtech Bourgogne-Franche-Comté and apartment buildings, signs that a new neighborhood is emerging around the Cité. This immense construction site, which has cost some 200 million (of which 30 for the city alone), and which we were able to visit in preview last week, has put all its assets on its side to prevent the sinking of the city of gastronomy in Lyon, which fell in the former Hôtel Dieu Lyonnais, has been rehabilitated with the Hôtel Intercontinental. Two other cities should see the light of day, in Tours and Rungis, where nothing has been fully recorded yet. Dijon has therefore taken the lead by betting on the future, devoting itself not only to the influence of Burgundy on the edge of the great hills, but to that of all the French delicacies that must be clearly emphasized here. A hotel with the Hilton label should see the light of day in the historic building of the former hospital within two years.

Michel Roth in Ferrieres-en-Brie

He returned to Ferrières-en-Brie, in the castle that once belonged to the Rothschilds and inspired Marcel Proust and his Recherche du Temps Perdu to imagine his Guermantes, the splendor he once knew at the Ritz. The place where a cooking school is located, with its three hundred students from all over the world, is also a place for gastronomic feasts. Michel Roth, Bocuse d’Or and MOF 1991, always the protagonists at Bayview in Geneva, draws the menu of the gastronomic table there, with its gold, its stucco, its moldings, its view of the large park. The place is called Le Baron, in honor of Baron James de Rothschild. And the kitchen, performed by the wise apprentice Yannick Quemin, who worked for Laurent avenue Gabriel, the era of Astor Robuchon, at the Ritz, at Marc Meneau in Vézelay, at Ledoyen with Christian Le Squer, and the effervescent pastry chef Desty Brami (who also manages the house patisserie, called “Madeleine by Ferrières”), is very bourgeois, plays the dish of memory and revives tradition. Among the dishes offered, duck foie gras with sangria herbs, the perfect egg with macaroni with morels or pike-perch in two preparations, with lobster flambé with Cointreau, orange gnocchi, not to mention the imperial souffle potatoes next to the tenderloin and soufflé with candied fruit in a Rothschild soufflé” style are rediscovered great classics.

Melanie Serre against Monaco

Melanie Serre © Maurice Rougemont

Melanie Serre? We have been following this fighter from Annonay (Ardèche) for a long time, working for Potel and Chabot and active for a long time in the Robuchon group, for whom she worked in the kitchens of the Atelier Etoile. Here she is back in Monaco, working with Christophe Cussac, her ” father in the kitchen“, in the Métropole, in Joël Robuchon Monte-Carlo’s restaurant. There, opposite the rock, in the town of Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, she replaces Manon Fleury in the Elsa restaurant on the beach of Monte-Carlo. Season, with the misfortune to lose the star. The challenge for Mélanie, advisor emeritus, who advises Louis Vins in the 5th and the Donjon, played under her leadership in Etretat? Of course to find the lost laurels there. Note that Elsa, named in honor of Hollywood “gossip” Elsa Maxwell who loved the place, is committed to organic vegetables and sustainable fishing. Suffice it to say that the lively Mélanie will be there like a fish in water.

Alan Geam in Marseille

Alan Geeam © Mari Manoukian

Unsustainable! Alan Geaam is everywhere: in Paris, in the Michelin-starred restaurant that bears his name in rue Lauriston, near the Etoile, in his small restaurant empire in the Haut Marais, between rue Saint-Martin and rue Nicolas Flamel, where his other starred restaurant (dedicated to the Parisian alchemist Nicolas Flamel) plus Saj, its lair dedicated to Lebanese galette, its temple of shawarma (Qasti Shawarma & Grill), its grocery store (“ the Dukan“), without forgetting its chic Lebanese bistro Qasti, aka “my story”. Who wants to duplicate it in Marseille, thanks to the Antoun family, who own the New Hôtel de Marseille, near the old port. And it will be his first address in the provinces. In a chic setting, with a shocking team, he will offer his crazy mezzes, his kebbeh, sambousex, makaneks with pomegranate molasses, sojouks with verjuice and sesame juice, falafels and tabbouleh, hummus and baba ganoush, all with a sea view. Alan!

Jeff Têtedoie and his family in Lyon

Nicolas Halfon, Rémi Martinet, Jeff Tetedoie © GP

He renewed his team and joined Rémi Martinet, former chef of the Auberge de l’Ile Barbe in the kitchen, alongside Jean-Christophe Ansanay-Alex, who also worked in the Camélia in Bougival, with Thierry Comte. We add the dynamic room manager Nicolas Halfon, plus the talented pastry chef Mickaël Barret. Jeff Têtedoie, son of Christian, the president of the master chefs of France, serving in Antiquaille and whose other son Maxime, works in Café du Peintre with his mother, has created his universe in this Café Terroir that plays the modern cap . The setting is chic, between a country cafe, with its large wooden table d’hôte in the center of the room, the atmosphere of an urban bistro, with its slates codifying the dishes of the moment. The wines are renewed and remain faithful to the Beaujolais and the Rhone Valley. We know that there is also the Cellar House a stone’s throw away. But it really is in this “Café Terroir” that it happens… This is the gastronomic bistro of the moment to (re)discover in the capital of Gons.

Mullion at Chantilly, Denon at Baudelaire, Goupil at Le Quellec

Pierre Meneau © GP

We have been following him for years: he was the enfant terrible of the young Parisian kitchen and trendy at Crom’Exquis in the 8th arrondissement and the turbulent and articulate candidate for Top Chef. He had left Paris for the Val d’Oise in Presles, in the forest of Isle Adam, where he ran the kitchens of the Domaine des Vanneaux overlooking a golf course. Here is now Pierre Meneau in the Oise, who takes over the stoves of the Auberge du Jeu de Paume, with its two gourmet tables, the chic bistro called “le Jardin d’hiver” and the table with stars, which are two stars of the by Arnaud Faye, and where we met Clément Leroy and Anthony Denon. The latter, who wanted to return to Paris, runs the Baudelaire kitchens in Burgundy. While the head of this latter house, Guillaume Goupil left to join Séphanie Le Quellec, whom he knew at the Prince of Wales, to join the Stage team. A strange game of musical chairs… In Chantilly, consulting the gastronomic grimoires of the great century, Pierre Meneau prepares to update the recipes of the Prince de Condé, lord of these aristocratic quarters, as well as the great service called “à la Russian”, so at the pedestal table. To be continued…

Anthony Denon © GP

Angelo Ferrigno or the New Wave of Burgundy

Angelo Ferrigno © GP

Angelo Ferrigno? We knew him when he started in Dijon at the Maison des Cariatides. This native of Semur-en-Auxois, only 29 years old (he will turn thirty in November), son of a Portuguese and an Italian, transalpine in name only, who practices high quality Burgundian and locavore cuisine, had quietly won a star there, after his classes at the Hostellerie de Levernois in Beaune and an internship with Régis Marcon in Saint Bonnet le Froid. It impresses, now, in the new decor of “Cibo” (“food” in Italian), a table quickly star, loft style, with a stone wall and wooden tables, playing with the contours. All its products, cleverly listed on a menu where everything is clearly presented, come from less than 200 km from Dijon. The great shine? For example, we will talk about the large and fine fresh morel, stuffed with beef tongue and smoked celery, (beef from Guillaume Verdin at the Ferme de Clavisy, mushrooms and vegetables at the Potager des Ducs in Dijon). We’ll talk about it later.

Leave a Comment