Milan Fashion Week: hands up!

In the imagination of fashion, of course, there is the stylistic appearance of the Parisian, but also the unique glamor of the Italian. A sex appeal that designers revisited on their runways during Milan Spring/Summer 2022 Fashion Week, September 21-27, celebrating bodies and revealing skins.

versace.

At Versace, Donatella Versace expresses sensuality through the house’s iconic printed silk scarf. “The scarf is a fundamental part of the Versace heritage. This season it is no longer liquid or volatile. He’s provocative, sexy, very tightly bound.” explains the designer. The parade, opened by singer Dua Lipa, demonstrates this through bustier tops that reveal the hips, bras under neon suits that elongate the leg, split micro skirts worn with men’s jackets. The look is sexy and frankly adopted.

Dolce Gabbana.

A bias we find at Dolce & Gabbana, used to not skimping when it comes to showing as much skin as possible. “We wanted to pay tribute to the feminine world by giving women the opportunity to express themselves and assert their sex appeal,” detailed the duo for the show. Lace bodysuits under jeans adorned with flashy jewels, leather Perfecto combined with black guipure bras, ultra close-fitting lace-up dresses or very short sheer chiffon dresses, little is left to the imagination.

Roberto Cavalli.

At Roberto Cavalli, for whom Fausto Puglisi signed his second collection here, sexy with bright accents was not far away, you only had to look in the archives. The historic tiger, leopard or zebra prints of the Florentine house are alternately worn on long slit dresses, jackets voluminous or very small dresses with suggestive cutouts… Kim Kardashian and Jennifer Lopez have already succumbed. I want sexy to be celebrated as part of life, sex is part of life, right? Today’s women are no longer subject to the gaze of men, I want them to be free to wear what they want! † explains Fausto Puglisi.

Prada.

Houses with a more cerebral universe have also questioned the notion of sensuality, such as Prada, whose collection designed by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons has attempted to redefine its contours through two identical fashion shows, staged simultaneously in Milan and Shanghai. . We have led to a reflection on the language of seduction, which in the end always comes down to the body. This collection is an investigation into what these questions mean today, what is seduction? † specifies Miuccia Prada in her letter of intent.

In response, the duo played very intelligently on the thread of these questions, with aged leather jackets worn next to the skin, sections of duchess satin escaping from the backs of miniskirts, padded bras in wool sweaters, jackets in the style of a corset and fine knit polos accentuate the chest or even the ties of dresses that are not completely closed, giving a glimpse of the lace of the lingerie. A modern take on the idea of ​​evocative seduction, perfectly executed.

MSGM.

For Massimo Giorgetti at MSGM, sensuality goes through cutting games that reveal the skin, sometimes that of the belly thanks to an electric green crop top, sometimes that of one shoulder through the asymmetry of a draped and flowery dress, or even that of the legs thanks to shorts or ultra-short skirts.

Salvatore Ferragamo.

The hide is also the playground subtly explored by Guillaume Meilland in Salvatore Ferragamo. Less frontal than her peers, her sexy attitude nestles in a plunging neckline on a long black cotton dress, another in fringed suede that creates a draft on the tummy, a fishnet top or even a draped top on the chest.

tods.

An understated sensuality that reflects disseminated by Walter Chiapponi at Tod’s, which offers a wardrobe tinged with sportswear references – zip-up short parkas, knit dresses that reveal underwear, jackets with patch pockets… – served by a palette of soft colors , between yellow, orange and poppy.

Giorgio Armanic

Giorgio Armani received his guests in his personal home, and palazzo of a lively area of ​​Milan. It is in the basement, in his small theater, that the designer rolled out his Spring-Summer 2022 collection. reflections or even petticoats made of iridescent tulle.

If, strictly speaking, the question of sensuality is not the object of the collection proposed by francesco Risso at Marni, who likes the execution of the bodies there his place. The designer, who arrived at the head of the Milan house in 2016, has indeed envisioned a participatory parade: each guest was dressed in one or more pieces bearing the Marni logo, usually large hand-painted recycled cotton shirts. Add to this a choir, violinists, saxophonists, a poet who recites verses and the American singer Zsela Thompson who sits in the center of the stage… hard to distinguish from the models in this meeting, who wore a series of striped and colorful dresses that biased wares and assemblages of daisy motifs on short skirts accompanied by bras. A refreshing parade show, served by a cast of different morphologies.

Versace by Fendi.

Finally, surprise: Sunday evening, when most of the journalists and foreign buyers had left the city, the Versace and Fendi houses unveiled a joint collection called Fendace, during a parade that was kept secret. Kim Jones and Silvia Venturini Fendi have reinterpreted the Versace codes, while Donatella Versace has adopted Fendi’s. The result is a sexy hybrid collection with a mix of glamour, scarf prints, logo tights, flashy jewelery or evocative lace, worn by cult top models Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell or Amber Valletta, who have also reinvented the concept of sexy in fashion. .

Fendi by Versace.
Read also Milan Fashion Week: Moncler in World View

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