On Friday, the third day of Milan Fashion Week, the collection presentations continued.
Between Milan and Shanghai at the same time or in a warehouse… The shows continued on the third day of Milan Fashion Week with the house Missoni, where a breath of fresh air is blowing, and Miuccia Prada who “wants to learn the lessons of the moment”.
The parade is public in Milan for Prada, but at the same time for another floor in Shanghai. The same looks parade in sync at both ends of the planet in two sets that interact with each other.
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, the co-artistic directors, had said it in recent all-digital seasons: they loved the feeling that a community could come together and experience a collective experience from every corner of the world.
To pretend that nothing had happened would therefore be a misinterpretation for Miuccia Prada. “I don’t agree at all with the idea of going back to ‘normal’, we need to learn the lessons of this moment,” she said. “Using technology as an intermediary for humanity was the inspiration for the first Raf et moi show, our first collection,” adds the designer.
Her credo: don’t look back and keep wondering, this time about the concept of seduction and expressing sexuality through clothing. Those that were historically symbolic of seduction by coercion – the evening dress, the corset, the bra – are here deconstructed and stripped to preserve only certain elements of their architecture and liberate the body.
All that’s left is a long silk train, but over a miniskirt; the print of a chest but on a knitted sweater; the memory of a corset, open at the back. Next to the skin, the models wear oversized blazers, jackets or large worn leather jackets for a new idea of modernity.
New wind at Missoni
In the morning, Missoni received her guests in a large warehouse north of the Lombardy capital to present the first collection of the new artistic director, Alberto Caliri. Thus, for the first time in the house’s history, it is no longer a member of the founding family in charge.
In May, Angela Missoni, the third child of Tai and Rosita Missoni, left her position as Artistic Director having replaced her mother herself and gave way to Caliri, her historic right arm for twelve years. The two women, as well as Margherita, the third generation, attended the show as happy spectators.
There were knits and patterns that were dear to the house, but there was a wind of change with an ultra-sexy, daring and sophisticated collection. Bikinis under large jackets or flowing tunics, mini skirts and leather headbands give the skin as important a role as the fabrics with which it is dressed.
The brand’s iconic patterns, the legendary “flames”, are there, but they hide between the metallic reflections of the textures. The knitted dresses are intentionally unfinished and frayed, as if to reveal the workings of the loom that is at the heart of the house’s collections.
Friday’s day would end in the evening with Versace. If Donatella’s collection is expected, it is the unveiling of a collaboration between Versace and Fendi that has been in everyone’s conversation since Friday morning in Milan.
Thursday night, the well-kept secret “leaked”: the two houses have indeed been working for weeks on a capsule collection designed with six hands by Kim Jones, Silvia Venturini Fendi and Donatella Versace – collection that will be unveiled on the occasion of a surprise pageant this Sunday.