Few fashion designers are unanimous among their peers. Alber Elbaz, who spearheaded the creation of the Lanvin House for 14 years and died from the effects of Covid-19, in April, at the age of 59, was one of them. Tuesday, October 6, at the end of the week of the presentation of the spring-summer 2022 collections, the small fashion world gathered during a tribute show at the Carreau du Temple, around the teams of AZ Factory, the label launched by the creator in Nov 2020.
“Alber’s mantra was” “Love brings love”† He knew how to get the c . had to touchlove from every person he met, regardless of their status or age, with his generosity, his sense of humor and his infinite empathy”says Alex Koo, who was Alber Elbaz’s associate for nearly thirty years.
Inspired by the story of the “Théâtre de la mode” of 1945 – a traveling show showcasing the traditional know-how of French fashion in the form of small dolls – the evening brought together 45 “tribute” creations, each signed by a different designer. † It was very easy to convince them to participate in this event. Alber was highly regarded in the business and his fashion touched many people”explains Laurent Malecaze, chairman of AZ Factory.
Everyone then tried to express the happy and funny universe of Alber Elbaz, like Pieter Mulier in Alaïa, who sent a pink dress, sculpted like a second skin laced with hearts, on stage. , or even Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga, who suggested a large pink taffeta cape dress, closed at the back with a giant bow, one of the couturier’s favorite gimmicks.
Dries Van Noten and Grace Wales Bonner
Some have recreated the designer’s unique silhouette at their suggestion, such as Olivier Rousteing for Balmain, who accentuated his little silk satin dress – inspired by Lanvin’s 2013 Autumn-Winter collection – with a self-portrait of the couturier, with his recognizable pair of glasses in between a thousand. Dries Van Noten followed the same exercise, wearing a long draped pink coat, as did Bruno Sialelli at Lanvin, who projected a portrait photo of the designer onto a large white cape.
“When Pierpaolo Piccioli and I were appointed artistic director of Valentino, Vogue Italy organized a big dinner. I was very impressed to be surrounded by established and recognized creators. Alber was the first to talk to me and made me feel welcome. He congratulated me and stayed by my side all evening. He became like a brother to me †explains Maria Grazia Chiuri, artistic director of Dior, who presented a strapless tulle dress, decorated with hearts and sketches of little black dresses.
“The fashion of Alber Elbaz was for me the quintessence of joy. He knew perfectly how to cut the garment and he freed the woman’s body like no other. I also wanted to emphasize the relationship between Lanvin and Hermès. Alber loved the house and vice versa. I wanted to pay him a personal tribute.confides Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski, artistic director of Hermès, around a pleated dress that combines leather and silk.
The young generation of creators also lent themselves to the game, such as Grace Wales Bonner, who developed the art of customization – mastered to perfection by Alber Elbaz – through an elegant trouser suit. The South African designer Thebe Magugu was inspired by the time of Alber Elbaz with Guy Laroche – in 1997 – for his silhouette that combines an airy blouse and a long pleated white skirt made of recycled satin. † It is a great honor for me to participate in this evening. Albert has always inspired me immensely. I remember his kindness of him, which is sometimes a bit lacking in our industry”confides in the young designer, who brings Alber Elbaz’s family and friends together at the end of a moving evening.