Milan – The Milan women’s fashion shows for the fall-winter 2022-2023 end on Monday after six days of getting an idea of the main trends for the coming months. Here are a few :
1. All shoulders forward
The return of shoulder pads, stars of the 80s, is the order of the day. Exaggerated, even XXL, they chanted the parades. Dolce & Gabbana had a lot of fun with a perfect wardrobe to enhance your figure: anthracite double-breasted suits or orange, fuchsia and canary yellow jackets.
Versace chose to bet on contrast with long, oversized coats with a reinforced build in light blue and pink, paired with her trademark corset tops. At Prada, large black dresses with generous shoulders with chains wrapped around the neck.
Nothing to hide ! The garment becomes transparent, translucent, if not stripped. Fendi bets on silk chiffon skirts that leave little to the imagination, in delicate shades of apricot, mint and pink. Transparency is textured at N°21, while Lorenzo Serafini chose Philosophy for a bare turtleneck that reveals generous shoulder pads (again!).
Missoni, the Italian king of knits, reproduces his famous zigzag pattern on slightly transparent lurex, sewn into shimmering dresses and long-waisted tunics. Prada lets her legs glimpse through the sheer silk of cigarette skirts ending below the knee, decorated with inserts of leather or gray wool. Bottega Veneta also embraces full transparency for lovely shimmering and sheer dresses adorned with also transparent sequins.
3. Cuddle comfort
The thirst for comfort will not be quenched. Very soft oversized coats, in which you wrap yourself as if hugging your duvet, reigned supreme in Milan. Versace opts for a shiny, puffy red belted jacket, while Philipp Plein opts for the same recipe for a bomber jacket. At Diesel, the Italian king of jeans, women are dressed in powder pink and avocado green in a XXXXL version.
Bottega Veneta, nicknamed the Italian Hermès, did not hesitate to offer a sheath dress in teddy bear skin, perfectly cut. And Dolce & Gabbana took the exercise to its zenith with its catwalk metaverse designed by Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana: black and white coat, warm and curly, faux fur… The icing on the cake: a black lacquered cocoon coat that can be worn in turn into a sleeping bag in the blink of an eye.
4. Microscopic Tops
Tiny tops, which look more like swimsuit tops than actual tops, have spread like wildfire in Milan. Everything is bare except for a strategic part of the hull. To accompany these micro garments, Missoni offers shiny trousers, Diesel Ragged jeans. The chest bandeau is all the rage, like singer and stylist Rihanna’s black latex on the Gucci show, which showed off her upcoming belly.
At Roberto Cavalli, the headband is available in mustard or emerald mohair, accompanied by voluminous skirts or trousers. Stylist Fausto Puglisi’s “cage dresses” are black and fitted, with narrow bands of fabric across the chest that give them an underground or even SM je ne sais quoi thanks to the addition of metal rings.
5. Integral Suits
Beware, this mini trend is not for everyone. For better or for worse, the full suit made an appearance in Milan, most notably with Roberto Cavalli, who successfully adapted his famous leopard print to a matching leather model for good measure. Etro opted for crochet, while Blumarine presented a red long-sleeved version. Wear at your own risk. (AFP)