These new trends that will define tomorrow’s fashion

Fashion, an eternal reboot? Sure, but the health crisis has still changed the benchmarks. As basic trends like the sneaker and the 90s continue and even increase, the garment now faces a daily disruption. A major challenge for textile players, as clothing “is the first cost item we sacrifice, it is a sector that suffers from macroeconomic shocks,” said Franck Delpal, economist and professor at the French Institute of Fashion. These are the guidelines for the coming years.

The costume is back, but cooler

If there’s one piece of clothing that has wisely stayed in the closet, it’s the suit. Will he make a comeback when the health crisis is over? Yes, but different, according to Vincent Grégoire, trend fighter at the style agency NellyRodi: who are more inspired by sportswear than by classic tailoring.

The fabrics are softer, with jersey and fleece. The cuts are also less stiff and the pants have a drawstring or elasticated waist (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Marni, etc.) like a sports tracksuit. Practical if you have gained a bit of weight during childbirth… “The suit is more ergonomic without falling into a mess”, he sums up. In the same way, the accessories that created the effect of a silhouette that is as structuring as it is restrictive, lose momentum, such as the tie and even the belt. The traditional briefcase is easier to replace with a backpack, such as those made of coated canvas from Rains, compatible with bicycles.

The shoe is also unrestrained

The shoes often remain in the closet. The comfort trend of indoor shoes adopted during confinement will continue. Like the suit, the urban shoe will hybridize, either to win in style, like the countless brands that bet on chic sneakers, like the French national norm, or to get more technical. A bit dated until then, brands like Geox can return to the front of the stage, thanks to a breathable sole system available on all styles of footwear. They are also more responsible: “We are noticing an increasingly strong CSR dimension and a brand like Tbs is responding to this demand with shoes made of recycled plastic or imitation leather”, describes Vincent Grégoire. On the women’s side, the heel also suffers. “The flat is popular, with sneakers or ballet flats, and if there’s a heel, it’s offset or lower and wider, with a notion of stability,” he continues.

Leggings, for sports, but not only

As video sports have gained followers, the trend “athleisure” (contraction of the words “athletic” and “leisure” in English) has also affected those who prefer to stay on the couch. Sports leggings offer “a technicality and a lightness that at the same time allows you to remove the mess from the fabric compared to jeans,” said Elisabeth Prat, fashion trends director at Peclers Paris. The signs have understood this because they rely more on the ‘lifestyle’ dimension of their clothing, such as Sézane’s EPS range. “Even in times of crisis, knitting has traditionally made a comeback, because the sweater is seen as a refuge, a cocoon,” explains Elisabeth Prat.

The bra becomes discreet or optional

The latest Etam campaign sets the tone: “New bra, freedom without underwire”. It capitalizes on a basic trend, that of “no bra”, reinforced by successive incarcerations: according to a survey by Ifop, one in six girls under 25 never wears a bra, i.e. four times more than before giving birth, and 50 % of French women surveyed had already experienced ‘no bra’ when telecommuting. The bra as we know it, with underwire and sometimes padding, still exists, but now coexists with a new offering, that of the triangle top and the bra. All of stretchable and seamless materials.

Work clothes are chic

Another clothing trend related to that time: the work uniform. Not the white collars, but the blue collars, with the figureheads of the overalls and the cotton or linen work jacket with patch pockets. Two unisex pieces that “carry memories of a classic work world that may be disappearing”, according to Vincent Grégoire. Traditionally blue, the work jacket is now available in other colors and lends itself to both casual and formal styles. Another piece that is becoming increasingly essential: the colorful overcoat democratized by Uniqlo and the sleeveless jacket that offers performance, comfort and style at the same time.

The blur of genres to keep up with the times

The debate around the concept of gender is also stirring fashion. According to Elisabeth Prat of Peclers Paris, “unisex is a global trend, where men’s fashion tends towards the feminine, in terms of proportion, for example with a shorter T-shirt and a tighter waist”, or alternatively clothing that can be worn by both genders. For Vincent Grégoire, “’no gender’ is an evolution of ‘normcore'”, a contraction of “normal” and “hardcore”, ie a style with a pronounced desire for neutrality. To distinguish yourself from the “gender fluid” trend , “more in staging and pageantry”, such as the stage outfits of Bilal Hassani (who also created a collection for the women’s brand Jennyfer).

The winning comeback of the 90s

XXL logos, total denim look and colorful tracksuits: we are undoubtedly witnessing a comeback of the 90s. Models are increasingly sought in second-hand and frugal. A revival began a few years ago and has been propelled by the revival of iconic brands such as K-Way and Chevignon, and more recently with Champion, Fila and Sergio Tacchini appearing in large numbers on sweatshirts. In terms of cut, we are gradually moving away from the “slim” silhouette, an essential silhouette of the 2000s, to move towards looser clothing, with the trend of “mom fit” jeans for women (high waist and straight cut) and for men. , the return of the root cut (legs wider at the thigh than at the ankle).

The post-Covid will have its crazy years

Every way out of the crisis has had its period of extravagance: there were the incredible and wonderful after the Terror, the Roaring Twenties after the First World War… And what can we expect after the Covid? “A return to timeless pieces in the short term, but there will be a very strong rebound mixed with the party and the desire to find the collective”, predicts Vincent Grégoire, with the key “an explosion of colors, flashy accessories and original prints Elizabeth Prat said. Asymmetry, trompe-l’oeil jewelry and why not a musketeer collar: “Chic, kitsch, that means nothing anymore. Good or bad, things just have to taste’, analyzes Vincent Grégoire.

Thanks to digital space for co-creation

On Instagram, in particular, you may have seen polls asking you to vote for the color of a shirt, the cut of a dress, or the pattern. Co-creation allows brands with strong communities to ask about this when designing a garment to create the “I made it myself” effect. Popular with small structures often without a marketing department, co-creation can also benefit large groups by reconnecting them with their customers. In the same logic, personalization will continue and expand. Like Nike, which offers to make sneakers in its own image, and Le Slip Français, which allows a personalized message to be embroidered on underwear, these services target “consumers” who want to wear clothes that reflect their identity and standardized silhouettes of fast fashion.

The world of video games, a new playground

Unlikely and unprecedented, the Louis Vuitton League of Legends collection released in 2019 says a lot about the weight of the video game world, whose growth has not been held back by the health crisis, quite the contrary. For brands, it’s about reaching consumers differently, especially the younger generation, and then we could imagine outfits inspired by the crazy worlds of “Fortnite” or “Clash Royale”, “for a more liberating and festive feeling”, said Vincent Gregoire. Video games can also be an interesting marketing tool by becoming a showcase for very real creations. In particular, this is the idea that Gémo had when he presented his spring collection at “Animal Crossing” last year when the stores were closed, while Longchamp, on the occasion of the Pikachu capsule collection, offered players “Pokémon Go” to equip their avatar with a branded backpack that can be bought in real life.

>> Health, work, housing… all the innovations that will change our lives. This is the cover of the last issue of Capital. Access to this edition in seconds from 3.35 euros.

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