Monday whispers: Maurey and d’Aboville from the Mini-Palais to the Maison Fournaise, Jean-Edern Hurstel to Saint-Tropez, Thibault Sombardier and his Paris-Deauville vol-au-vent, Fabrice Idiart to Gaztelur, Brindos found, Julien Rodriguez at the Pont Tournant, Maud Aracil at Boma, Jean-Bruno Gosse at Loiseau des Ducs | Gilles Pudlowski’s blog

Maurey and d’Aboville from the Mini-Palais to the Maison Fournaise

Olivier Maurey and Stéphane d’Aboville © GP

This team of seasoned pros breathing new life into a charming residence steeped in history, prized by the Impressionists, we saw not so long ago at the Mini-Palais. Olivier Maurey, the big boss of the Luderic group, which in particular manages Ralph’s, Cristal Room Baccarat, the chic table of the Saint-Cloud golf course, such as the Ami Louis he owns, carried out a first-class renovation under the seal historical monuments, which reveal the favorite home of Guy de Maupassant and Auguste Renoir (he painted his famous “lunch for canoeists”) on the banks of the Seine, on the island of Chatou. The place – the Maison Fournaise – has charm, with its appearance of a contemporary inn from 1900, its large terrace on the first floor under its awning decorated with friezes. Stamp and spirit, the kitchen is not lacking under the direction of Stéphane d’Aboville, who spent ten years working with Eric Frechon in Bristol, and ten years also, on the latter’s advice, at the Mini-Palais. This Tarbais trained in the starry sky of his hometown (Ambroisie) and at the Cheval Blanc de Bayonne, with Jean-Claude Tellechea, there plays a classical-modern register that fits very well with this place conducive to relaxation in front of the great spectacle of the Seine in majesty. It starts, but all themarbled egg, meurette sauce and sweetbreads, presented in a Comté crust with yellow wine, are considered “signature dishes”.

Jean-Edern Hurstel in Saint-Tropez

Jean-Edern Hurstel © DR

We’ve been following him for a long time. He was the head chef of the Paris Peninsula, before settling on his own, instead of Gilles Epié du Miraville, in Paris and then moving to Anières, Lake Geneva and the outskirts of Geneva. Finally, Jean-Edern Hurstel is at home in… Saint-Tropez, at the Brasserie Tropézienne, rue Henri Seillon, not far from the port. This former member of the great houses (Arpège by Alain Passard, Lucas-Carton with Alain Senderens, the Ritz with Michel Roth, the Auberge de l’Ill des Haeberlin in Illhaeusern, finally Alain Ducasse in Monaco), without forgetting great journeys in the international luxury hotel industry, plays a lively, playful, Mediterranean menu here, with a touch of Italy, with crazy pastas and tapas-like hors d’oeuvres to share. Crispy tuna and truffle tarama, grilled king prawns, garlic and chili or spaghetti al vongole have no other purpose than to please everyone without fuss.

Thibault Sombardier and his Paris-Deauville vol-au-vent

Thibaut Sombardier with the Parisians © DR

It’s making a comeback in fine dining. Thibault Sombardier, who once amazed us in Antoine Avenue de New York, near the Quai de Seine, opposite the Eiffel Tower, has not lost a crumb of his talent by creating “Les Parisiens” in the heart of the very select hotel Pavillon Faubourg -Saint -Germain, owned by the Chevalier family (the Pavillon de la Reine in the Place des Vosges, the Pavillon des Lettres opposite the Elysée), on the corner of rue de l’Université and rue du Pré-aux-Clercs. Always present only at Mensae in the 19th and Sellae in the 13th, the very talented Thibault, who we once discovered at Dutournier in Trou Gascon, set up a team there and signed a largely naval card, as in the past. although not alone. In any case, among his star dishes we find grilled mackerel fillets with mustard and above all the sublime Paris-Deauville vol au vent (prawns, mussels, monkfish, mushrooms) Norman sauce (onion, cider, fine herbs) with gossamer puff pastry, without doubt the showpiece and star dish of the house. Much cheaper (€28) and lighter than the legendary sweetbreads (but priced at €41) from the nearby Café des Ministries. And without a doubt one of the very best of its kind in Paris. We will be back soon!

Vol au vent Paris-Deauville with Normandy sauce © GP

Fabrice Idiart at Gaztelur

Fabrice Idiart © GP

He was the prodigy of the Saint-Jean-de-Luz reserve, purely Basque, educated at Sarran in Toulouse, Gahuzère in Biarritz and then Demangel in Miramar. Fabrice Idiart, leaving the home of the Floirat group on the Basque coast where he stayed for ten years, had started again by going to the Moulin d’Alotz in Arcangues, where he had quickly achieved a star. And today, double the stakes by taking over, still in Arcangues, Gaztelur, a rustic and chic Basque house from 1401, assessed in a gastronomic and artist studio by Alexandre Bousquet and Isabelle Caulier, since then taking over the former home of André Gahuzère in the fields The house is both an antique dealer, florist and innkeeper. Wanting to promote “family cooking”, Fabrice Idiart has put together a team for him, as well as a new wave, relaxed and gourmet Basque menu, all in a refined setting and atmosphere, all managed by the artistic director of the place Olivier Granet.

Brindos found

The dining room of Brindos © Gaëlle Le Boulicaut

For a time we feared that the Château de Brindos in Anglet, which Serge Bianco held dear, would turn into a service home for the elderly. This is not the case, because thanks to the Millésime group, who believed in this magical place, with its almost secret lake, the appearance of a Basque villa from the 1930s, new floating lodges, built on the water (ten in total ) and accessible by electric boats, is again affiliated with Relais & Châteaux. The kitchen, supervised by Flora Mikula, advisor to the group, is performed by house chef Hugo de la Barrière, formerly of the Ibarboure brothers in Bidart and Castel Clara in Belle Ile en Mer, uses seasonal dishes, products from France and Spain, the flavors of the Great West. The house also has its own chocolate factory set up with the help of the Basque institution of the genre, Cazenave in Bayonne. It will be one of the events of the summer on the Basque coast.

Hugo de la Barriere © DR

Julien Rodriguez at the Swing Bridge

Julien Rodriguez © GP

Born in Nord Pas de Calais, he was educated in Bise in Talloires with Sophie Bise and Gilles Furtin, then worked in Alsace with the Girardins during Casserole’s time in Strasbourg. Julien Rodriguez has been working in the Régent Petite France at the Pont Tournant since 2014 as chef de partie and then assistant to Boris Derendinger, whom he has just replaced, offering fine, seasonal dishes, in the colors of modern Alsace. In particular, Heimbach’s trout gravlax with bibelaeskese and horseradish, his sea bass with asparagus from Hoerdt and his pigeon from Théo Kieffer with new carrots glazed with herbs. We’ll talk about it later.

Maud Aracil at Boma

Maud David © GP

She is the new rebel leader and “ flexitarian » (ie encouraging to eat everything, without depriving yourself of anything, but in a conscious and reasoned way), of the Boma, the trendy hotel in the heart of Strasbourg. Maud Aracil, born in Marseille, spent at the three-star Gérald Passédat in Petit Nice and with the star Lionel Lévy at the Intercontinental, has traveled between South Africa and the Middle East. Maud Aracil offers a cuisine that reflects her intersection. Resolutely anti-waste, open to the world, playing with organic vegetables, it is revolutionizing the habits of Alsatian gourmets who now flock to rue du 22 Novembre, in the heart of the European capital, not only for quick, chic snacks, but also for travel on the plate with sophistication and mischief. We’ll talk about it very soon!

Jean-Bruno Gosse at Loiseau des Ducs

Jean-Bruno Gosse © DR

Born 31 years ago in Abbeville, he enjoyed the virtues of Burgundy by working for more than four years in the Pré aux Clercs, opposite the Palace of the Dukes and the town hall of Dijon. He is the new chef of Loiseau des Ducs, which is still in Dijon, and a stone’s throw from the Pré aux Clercs, the Michelin-starred restaurant of the Loiseau group. And takes over the now classic “light Burgundian” repertoire, once initiated by the great Bernard in Saulieu: egg poached in hay, pike perch with velvet on shallots, pigeon and Flavigny anise juice. The former head of the house, Louis-Philippe Vigilant, returned to the Relais Bernard Loiseau to support Patrick Bertron, in view of his succession after his impending retirement.

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