After two years of upheaval, fashion weeks are regaining an energy worthy of the pre-covid era. The Fall-Winter 2022-2023 shows marathon begins in New York on February 11 and ends in Paris on March 8. Overview of the Big Four and urban planning.
Exit digital Fashion Weeks. The four fashion capitals are all returning to physical shows. And even though some shows or presentations will remain virtual this season, the dynamics are palpable again. It is therefore in New York that from February 11, the fashion shows fall-winter 2022-2023 will start. London, Milan and Paris will then take over. Closing of the festivities on March 8 in the City of Light with Chanel and Miu Miu as the highlight.
New York, without Tom Ford
The mega-productions of Ralph Lauren or Tommy Hilfiger buzzing on the Net are no longer relevant. However, New York can count on some prestigious names such as Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra, Carolina Herrera, Coach, Gabriela Hearst, Michael Kors and Tory Burch. From February 11 to 16, they will physically parade in the city that never sleeps. The big absentee is Tom Ford, chairman of the CFDA (the Council of American Fashion Designers that runs the New York calendar, editor’s note) who announced at the end of January that he would not be able to present his new collection. It’s about the impact of the Covid-19 epidemic on his design studio team in Los Angeles, but also on his clothing workshops in Italy.
London, Her Majesty Nensi Dojaka
London will take over and present the Fall-Winter 2022-2023 collections until February 22, combining physical and virtual shows. Among the latter were some major London fashion shows such as David Koma, Erdem, Molly Goddard, Simone Rocha, Richard Quinn and Paul&Joe for the french touch† Long-awaited, Nensi Dojaka’s show, 2021 LVMH Prize, Queen of “cut out” (cutouts, in French) and fashion sensation of the year.
Milan, the great comeback of Gucci and Bottega Veneta
Kick off on February 23 with Diesel, the streetwear giant. A fashion show by Glenn Martens that runs on all fronts – also director of Y/Project, he has just signed Jean Paul Gaultier’s spring-summer haute couture. Of the great Italian brands, two in particular will be in the firing line: Gucci who, after a two-year absence, will return to the Milan catwalks, as will Bottega Veneta who will present the first collection of Matthieu Blazy, the new Artistic Director of Daniel Lee’s claw and ex-right arm.
Paris: The Row as a surprise guest
From the great Parisian houses to more confidential labels, including young international designers, Paris definitely remains the stronghold of world fashion. This season, of the 95 houses on the official calendar, 45 will present physical parades. While some major Parisian homes were off the calendar during the health crisis, they’re all here this season (except Celine). The festivities kick off on February 28 with the parade of IFM students, mixing reality and virtuality – certain accessories will even become NFT, takes time. On the same day, Off-White pays tribute to its founder – the late Virgil Abloh – with a show signed by the studio.
In video, The Row fashion show in our radar mode
Note the newcomers, among others: Ester Manas, Germanier and Vtmnts, the label derived from Vetements, piloted by Guram Gvasalia (Demna’s brother). Paris Fashion Week will also have a guest star American surprise: The Row, the chic and minimalistic label of the sisters Olsen that will be seen on March 2.