London | Young designers open Fashion Week

(London) Audiences braved the storm that raged in London on Friday for the first Fashion Week show, dedicated to the Fall/Winter 2022 collections, with a poster dominated by young designers.

Updated on February 18

Anna MALPAS
Media agency France

The week kicked off with the sustainable label SOHUMAN, owned by Spaniard Javier Aparici, who retired from finance to enter fashion under the promise of “radical transparency” about the factories that make his clothes.

He presented an ultra-feminine collection of cocktail dresses in red and black, appliqué flowers, transparent panels and gigantic bows.

This was followed by young British designers, with the street clothes chic from Saul Nash and his merino wool tracksuits, puffers and scarves.


PHOTO NIKLAS HALLE’N, AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE

the street clothes chic by saul nash

Another British brand, Poster Girl, known for its ultra-revealing dresses worn by celebrities like Kylie Jenner and Dua Lipa, made its first après-ski themed show.

Francesca Capper and Natasha Somerville, who studied at the prestigious Central Saint Martins Institute, showcased their neon-colored creations in the chill of a building slated for demolition.

Models in tubular dresses and leggings donned faux fur coats, puff jackets and a more sophisticated camel coat. There was even a ski suit, decorated with bright pink heeled sandals.

SS Daley, a Liverpool label whose designer Steven Stokey Daley graduated from the University of Westminster in 2020, presented a unisex collection of trousers baggy and Sherlock Holmes coats.

Matty Bovan, a designer from the north of England, also from Central Saint Martins, presented an American-style collection under the crypt of a church near Trafalgar Square. An eccentric collection made of combinations of baseball, gingham, denim and crochet jackets, the trademark.


PHOTO NIKLAS HALLE’N, AGENCE FRANCE-PRESSE

A creation by British designer Edward Crutchley

Thirty-seven parades

But these five days of parades are marked by the absence of names like Burberry, who announced a parade in London on March 11, outside of Fashion Week, and Victoria Beckham. The latter hasn’t participated in a Fashion Week for over a year, not even online, and complained in an interview about the cost of organizing the parades.

Another big name in British fashion, Ozwald Boateng announced at the last minute that he would be making his comeback during a show on Monday.

The former creative director of Givenchy Homme, the first black designer to hold the position in a luxury house, hadn’t presented a collection in London in 12 years.

Last year, this event was held simultaneously in a 100% virtual format, public parades were banned in a country under total confinement.

This time, 37 public parades are scheduled, including established brands accustomed to this meeting such as Simone Rocha, Molly Goddard, Roksanda, Erdem or Rejina Pyo presenting both women’s and men’s collections.

The stars of tomorrow are unearthed among the students of the prestigious fashion school Central Saint Martins or the designers selected by the talent incubator Fashion East, whose parades are organized on Sundays.

Among the leading designers in the field of sustainable fashion, Briton Bethany Williams and Irishman Richard Malone will present their creations on Tuesday.


PHOTO HENRY NICHOLLS, REUTERS

A creation of the Poster Girl brand on the theme of après-ski.

NFT

Also in the spirit of reaching out to fashion lovers around the world, Serbian Roksanda Ilincic will present its Fall/Winter 2022 collection in the form of an NFT, certified digital token, created by the Institute of Digital Fashion.

After being hit hard by the pandemic, the British fashion industry, which employed some 890,000 people in 2019, is trying to recover.

Asked by AFP, Caroline Rush, director-general of the British Fashion Council, admits there have been “some very difficult years” that have magnified the impact of Brexit.

This “remains a challenge for the fashion industry, whether it be customs duties, paperwork or visas for people to work in different countries, we are continuing to talk with the government to see what can be done.

London Fashion Week is followed by Milan and then Paris.

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