Lucas Carton, restaurant-museum like no other

Adopted champenois Paul-François Vranken, producer of white wines with a noble sparkle, had the lucky hand by offering the cuisine of Lucas Carton to the brilliant chef Hugo Bourny for an expected revival of this beautiful restaurant: an admirable setting.

Nothing is more difficult for a traditional chef than to bring to life, through the interplay of stews and flavors, a large Parisian table that had its heyday in the mid-20th century.and century.

A unique restaurant, three centuries of existence

The official opening of the restaurant dates back to the building’s construction by the architect Charpentier in 1839. But it was in 1860 that the new owner, Mr. Augis, christened the La Taverne de France, which became a popular spot in the All -Paris of Napoleon III.

The facade of restaurant Lucas Carton. † TheSundayPhotographer

In 1880 the restaurant was taken over by Mr. Scaliet and renamed Lucas. In 1924, Francis Carton acquired the establishment and put his name next to Lucas, bringing art lovers from all over the world to his home: he then became the illustrious Lucas Carton. To him we owe the creation of the lounges on the first floor with private access through the Passage de la Madeleine, which was then very popular with politicians during the IIIand Republic.

All the woodwork of the restaurant was made by Louis Majorelle and it took four years. They were carved from maple, sycamore and Ceylon lemon wood, in keeping with the zeitgeist. They have since been included in the Cultural Heritage Inventory of Historic Monuments and are in perfect condition, as are the sculptural bronze sconces depicting a woman’s face on the walls. For true art lovers, Lucas Carton remains a restaurant like no other.

Tables set in restaurant Lucas Carton. † TheSundayPhotographer

Fortunately, the restaurant-museum so dear to André Malraux has always been owned by art connoisseurs; the elegant table, of real refinement, remains a tribute to beauty and good taste.

Moreover, for decades Lucas Carton had the best clientele in the capital, those of Maxim’s, La Tour d’Argent, Lapérouse, Grand Véfour, Ledoyen. Francis Carton was a truly cultured and discerning restorer. He was not a chef himself like Louis Vaudable, owner of Maxim’s, for a long time the best restaurant in Paris.

In 1933, the Michelin Guide awarded three stars to Lucas Carton, who was one of the first to achieve them in Paris. Marc Soustelle brought Lucas Carton his international fame after 1945.

In the 1960s, an entire generation of young chefs was apprenticed, including Alain Senderens, who took over the restaurant from 1985 to 2013.

Noble cuisine continues to play a decisive role in Lucas Carton’s star-studded status. Before Gault & Millau, Lucas Carton was the standard-bearer of the classic and modern cuisine, enlightened by Alain Senderens, the creator of vanilla lobster: a delight that Lucas Carton took to the top in the second half of the 20th century.and century.

The current score of conductor Hugo Bourny

For more than fifteen years, Hugo Bourny has been trained by the best chefs: a remarkable passage with Arnaud Donckele in the Vague d’Or, a common love for people and the simplicity of fine products that create a sincere relationship and lasting . He then joined Chef Anne-Sophie Pic’s kitchen and spent nearly nine years with the brilliant Valentinoise. There he learns rigor, excellence, the constant search for the essence of products.

Hugo Bourny, chef of restaurant Lucas Carton. † Ballad Studio

In 2019 he works for another inspiring star woman: Hélène Darroze. He arrived during the year and in particular takes care to accompany the chef and owner of the restaurants Jòia and Marsan in the development of its gastronomic table. The kitchen will be successfully awarded a second star in Paris in 2021.

But Hugo Bourny wants a new project. The Vranken family, owner of Lucas Carton, meet him and the flow passes between them very quickly, giving birth to this new partnership.

Taking the best of the French terroir, with the complicity of the women and men he works for, Lucas Carton’s chef is constantly looking for balanced appointments on the plate.

Hugo Bourny offers a kitchen of emotion, a kitchen of intuition, as he likes to say.

His conception of cooking: an adventure between people and products. From there, the recipe will be born that sometimes reflects the chef’s course, his history, his roots, sometimes his mood, his terroir or simply the emotion of a moment.

Bringing a breeze of freedom to this sleeping beauty is chef Hugo Bourny’s current project.

Second in value, this great chef with the hands of a wizard has followed step by step the progress of chefs of great talent and has committed to rethink the refined cuisine of Lucas Carton, a skilful alliance between tradition and modernity. Lucas Carton is him, his style, purity and generosity: the third star is on the horizon.

Seven great dishes from Chef Bourny and Jordan Talbot, an outstanding pastry chef

Crab cake from the Breton coastsalmond velvet with lemon, celery and sea urchin garum

At the Lucas Carton restaurant, the rack cake. † TheSundayPhotographer

Laurent’s vegetable garden leeks from Val d’Oisejust marinated sea bass and nasturtiums, sparkling ginger stock

In restaurant Lucas Carton leek from Laurent’s Val d’Oise market garden. † TheSundayPhotographer

The Brillat Savarin selected by the farm of Alexandre in thin ravioli with yellow wine, mushrooms, hazelnuts and Douglas fir

Florian and Marie . scallops poached in fresh butter, cockles, samphire and saffron

In restaurant Lucas Carton, Florian and Marie’s scallops. † TheSundayPhotographer

Monkfish from our wholesale Gauthier marinated in wild garlic then smoked and matured, Chartreuse and white fish asparagus

Arnaud Billon’s beef matured by us rubbed with seaweed and Katsuobushi (dried bonito), bearnaise, samphire and celery chips

At the Lucas Carton restaurant, Arnaud Billon’s beef. † TheSundayPhotographer

Etienne and Perrine Schaeller’s Meyer lemon in marmalade and confit, almond sorbet and orange blossom

At restaurant Lucas Carton, Etienne and Perrine Schaeller’s Meyer lemon. † TheSundayPhotographer

True

Hippolyte Courty’s Sudan Rume coffee in a thin crispy sheet, textures and Kalamansi sorbet

In restaurant Lucas Carton, Stéphanie Leveau’s Perche poultry. † TheSundayPhotographer

And also: Perche poultry by Stéphanie Leveau black garlic, fermented Jerusalem artichoke, garlic flower oil and cardamom, Nicolas Berger’s grand cru chocolate from Venezuelamace-infused cream, mint sorbet, cocoa nibs.

In restaurant Lucas Carton, the grand cru chocolate of Nicolas Berger from Venezuela. † TheSundayPhotographer

“Round caviar” menu

Early Baerii Caviar & the rack langoustine in fine carpaccio, smoked raw cream, Meyer lemon, Tasmanian pepper leaves

Prestige Osetra Caviar and locker cake

Vintage Baerii Caviar and garden leeks

Osetra caviar and beef from Arnaud Billon

Baerii Origin caviar and coconut, verjuice in sorbet, creamy lemon and oyster leaf

In restaurant Lucas Carton, Baerii Origin caviar and coconut. † TheSundayPhotographer

9 place de la Madeleine 75008 Paris. Tel.: 01 42 65 22 90. Menus 95 euros in four courses, 135 euros in five courses, 185 euros in seven courses. All caviar menu at 260 euros. Card from 180 to 250 euros. Full in the evening. Sunday and Monday closed.

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