Monday whispers: Florian Barbarot… somewhere in the abyss, Manon Fleury back in Paris, we found Jean-Christophe Perrin, Da Roco in London, Fanny Mijon princess vegan, the Pudlo of bistros is coming, in Monaco Em Sherif replaces Omer | Gilles Pudlowski’s blog

Florian Barbarot… somewhere in the abyss

Florian Barbarot and Thibault Daubresse © GP

He was quarter-finalist at Top Chef season 10 (it was in 2019), chef de partie at the Auberge de l’Ill, then sous-chef at the Auberge de la Pomme aux Damps, meanwhile worked at Daniel Boulud in New York and at Lampart’s , near Basel in Switzerland. In short, after getting acquainted with the stars in someone else’s house, this traveler from Isère dives into his own bath and lets us dive with him. It’s called “Somewhere”. And we are there in the abyss… 1 Rue Ambroise Thomas in the 9th, not far from the Parisian Grands Boulevards. The first floor of the table in green tones is dedicated to bistronomy. The cellar, with its transparent kitchen labs, allows you to admire the work of its team of enthusiasts who strive to develop fine, exquisite, playful and rigorous, vegetable and iodized things. In short, it’s time to discover Florian Barbarot, 30 years old and full of energy and enthusiasm, like the sommelier Thibault Daubresse, who used to work with him at Haeberlin. We’ll mention just one dish, his feat of bravery: red tuna cooked over a wood fire, kebab style, in the dining room, served on puffed bread, with a heart of red tuna tartare, pickled courgette, plus a Pont Neuf apple. Stars in sight!

Manon Fleury, back to Paris

Manon Fleury at the time of Mermoz © GP

We announced to you two weeks ago the arrival of Mélanie Serre in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, in the restaurant Elsa on the beach of Monte-Carlo, where she replaces Manon Fleury. The latter, who has had only a short season on the Côte d’Azur, will return to Paris very soon for two months of “residence cuisine”. She should open a table in her name at the end of the year, still in the capital. We remember that this former junior fencing champion, discovered in Mermoz, near the Champs-Elysées, after her years of training at William Ledeuil (Ze Kitchen Galerie), Alexandre Couillon in Noirmoutier, Pascal Barbot in Astrance and in the USA at Dan Barber’s Blue Hill at Stone Barn is a cook like no other. This e-khâgneuse, who had chosen cooking out of passion through the Ferrandi school, was in particular a columnist at France Inter with our friend François-Régis Gaudry for his program “On va goûter”. To follow very soon.

Jean-Christophe Perrin’s Return

Jean-Christophe Perrin © GP

We knew Jean-Christophe Perrin once at Toiny’s in St Barth – that was thirty years ago! -, then at the Moulin de Brantôme in Périgord and at La Galupe in Urt in the Basque Country with his “kitchen father”, Christian Parra, finally at the Caveau d’Eguisheim, where he played refined and star cuisine with beautiful rustic notes. Here is this inhabitant of Luxeuil, of Vosges origin, in the activity zone of a village in the south of the Alsace wine route, in a bright and modern setting, large and bright, like a loft on its size, overlooking the the vineyards from afar. Her sister Patricia is busy at the reception and in the dining room with a smile to present the great ideas of the moment. The sommelier Amandine Navarette, Parisian naturalized Alsatian, juggles the fine wines from here and nearby, in white and red, dry or sweet. In short, we are only too happy to feast at reasonable prices, according to a constantly updated menu. This is the best table of the moment to discover in Alsace during an outing on the wine route on the south side.

Da Roco in London

The facade of Da Roco 16 © GP

The cheerful trio of Da Roco – Alexandre Giesbert (son of our friend FOG, formerly trained with Pierre Gagnaire and Eric Briffard at the Elysées du Vernet), Romain Glize, Julien Ross – remains a hit on the street Vivienne, in the former showroom of Jean-Paul Gaultier, as in the former Zebraplein, opposite the Maison de la Radio, playfully revisited as a good Italian restaurant, with crispy pizzas (like the parmigiana, with its tomato sauce, fior di lattesmoked scarmozza, aubergine, datterino tomato, parmesan), a fine vitello tonnato, with its small fried capers, linguine (with lemon butter) with a sea bream tartare or even an “affogamisu” funny mixed between affogato and tiramisu. Now the same team prepares to cross the Channel and open a 3rd “Da Roco”. In a month’s time it will be in London, in the hip Soho district. Success in sight…

Fanny Mijon vegan princess

Fanny Mijon © GP

She worked in luxury, fashion and jewelry. Fanny Mijon drifted into the kitchen with passion, after more than a year working in the patisserie at “VG patisserie” boulevard Voltaire. She has dedicated her table to organic and plant-based cuisine, The Friendly Kitchen”, made vegan and open, the place of her colorful and tasty research. On the programme: a festival of vegetables in all their forms, according to their seasons with spices and flavors from elsewhere. Like the “carrot ceviche”, the triple spiced sweet potato or the “asparagus cheesecake”. Fanny Mijon has also released a recipe book with her best tricks. His Parisian table, located 8 Rue Popincourt in the 11th, is undeniably worth the detour.

Pub Pudlo trophies are coming

We spoke to you a few weeks ago. The event is approaching. On May 9, we celebrate the Parisian bistros. Our ambition, based on Paris: to celebrate the excellence of the bistro as an art of living every spring with spring. With exclusive content, a selection, events plus a guide that highlights this culinary heritage the whole world envies. To do this, we have been able to count on partners who share the same values: Staub and its stews, queens of simmering, the Rungis market, rich ambassador of our terroirs, the Vignobles & Signatures club and its 17 family domains, Alain Fontaine and the association of Bistrots & Cafés de France, the Ile-de-France region, including Paris, the gastronomic capital, plus KNS Lease, which helps young restaurateurs get started financially. A newborn baby arrives for the occasion: “Le Petit Pudlo des Bistrots”, offered to everyone, who, in addition to the 6 winners of this 2022 edition, will present a selection of 70 favorite bistros in all Parisian districts. This collection of good addresses, places of atmosphere and gastronomic headquarters dserta will be distributed free of charge to the 70 award-winning addresses from 14 May, but is also available here all year round, in PDF, from 9 May. Something to inspire you to rediscover these cozy places and celebrate the spring of bistros with us.

In Monaco, Em replaces Sherif Omer

Em Sherif’s team © AA

Chefs and brands are on the move like never before in the Principality of Monaco. Yannick Alléno has just installed his Pavyllon at the Hôtel Hermitage, with the complicity of his Paris decorator Chahan Minassian and the relay in the kitchen of his pupil Guillaume Belllayer. Mélanie Serre, who together with her friend Bertrand Guillou-Valentin bought the fund of her Louis Vins (in the 5th arrondissement of Paris) from Philippe Austruy, will be the chef of Elsa during the summer, where she will be responsible for the restore the star that flew this year on the beach of Monte-Carlo. The latest Monegasque novelty, on the SBM side? The installation of Em Sherif, a prestigious Lebanese table replacing Omer, a Mediterranean brasserie signed Alain Ducasse, occupying a corner with a garden on the ground floor of the Hôtel de Paris. At the helm: Chef Mireille Hayek, who has created thirteen franchise addresses from the Middle East to London (at Harrod’s) and whose daughter, Yasmina, has attended the Bocuse Institute in Ecully, Mathieu Pacaud, Jean-François Piège and Rasmus Kofoed in Copenhagen, taste the Monegasque menu in three versions: Em Sherif Restaurant, Em Sherif Café, Em Sherif Sea Café. Plus a shisha lounge bar with sea views. Click here for more information.

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