Monday’s whispers: Dijon, its city, its success, Philip Chronopoulos the Greek angel of the Royal Palace, Olivier Bellin in Singapore, Didier Aniès in Cannes, Eric Trochon at Otto, Federica Ritteri Princess of Tuscany, Roberto Rispoli in Dubai, two tables for Villa Belrose | Gilles Pudlowski’s blog

Dijon, his city, his success

The forecourt of the city of gastronomy © city of Dijon

It opened its doors on May 6, as planned, inaugurated not by the current president Emmanuel Macron, but by his predecessor, François Hollande, gourmet (he did honor to the cakes of Nicolas Bernardé!), bon vivant and friend of the mayor François Rebsamen , who was once his minister. In short, Dijon has indeed created the gastronomic event for the summer, with its international city of gastronomy and wine of Dijon rising from the ground, on 6 ha, in the former Hôtel-Dieu, enhanced by a daring architectural rehabilitation, offering varied experiences and quality exhibitions (including one devoted to pastries). The place impresses, it combines the ancient and the modern with audacity, built and rebuilt by Eiffage, with the architects Anthony Béchu, leading member of the Club des Cent, and Alain-Charles Perrot, and houses a cooking school stamped Ferrandi, a school of Burgundy wines, food stores, a gourmet bookstore managed by Deborah Dupont, plus a large cellar and three restaurants signed Eric Pras, the three-star MOF de Lameloise in Chagny, managed by the Epicure group. There are nine more Pathé cinemas, start-ups of Village by CA and its Vitagora locomotives, plus Foodtech Bourgogne-Franche-Comté and apartment buildings, signs that a new neighborhood is emerging around the Cité. This huge project, which has cost some 200 million euros (of which 30 for the city alone), has put all its assets on its side. After the demise of Lyon’s and before that of Rungis and Tours, Dijon took charge of his city by betting on the future, devoting himself not only to the influence of Burgundy on the fringes of the great coasts, but to those of all French delicacies are clearly highlighted here. A hotel with the Hilton label should see the light of day in the historic building of the former hospital within two years.

Inauguration of the CIGV © DR

Philip Chronopoulos, the Greek Angel of the Royal Palace

Philip Chronopoulos © GP

He is the Greek angel of the Palais Royal in Paris, his diligent magician, his virtuoso chef, now awarded two stars, who builds his culinary style with gastronomic, subtle and creative progress while paying tribute to his roots. Philip Chronopoulos, 34, born in Athens and trained in Parisian catering, along with Alain Passard in Arpège and Joël Robuchon in his Atelier de l’Etoile, has been Chef of Restaurant du Palais Royal for seven years and also plays the role of co -executive chief of the Evok group, for the Nolinski, who also owns the Brach, Sinner, the Cour des Vosges and is preparing to settle in Venice. The service is deftly led by Ahmad Hamouni, whom we once knew in the Royal Monceau and in the Meurice, and the decor has been revised with sobriety and warmth by the decorator Christophe Tollemer, who also designed the colorful lounges on the first floor overlooking the the gardens. † There is a light air of Venice in this table that opens onto the columns of the Royal Palace, which, without much imagination, are reminiscent of the edges of St. Mark’s Square. Vibrant, delicate, complex things are revealed on the plates, such as these fine neo-Hellenic nibbles that so beautifully reconnect with the roots of the brilliant Philip. so the ‘spanakopita” – a pie with fresh herbs, spinach, coriander, mint, tarragon, parsley, feta cheese and yellow wine, which turns out to be overwhelmingly simple. Or the crispy buckwheat, tarama, black Kalamata olives and grated foie gras. We’ll tell you everything very quickly.

Olivier Bellin in Singapore

Olivier Bellin © GP

He is the victorious Breton chef from Finistère at Les Glazicks de Plomodiern, where he has a star twice, from l’Etage in Brest, from Mersea in Paris, Olivier Bellin, who was a star chef in Hong Kong, opens an immersive restaurant ” Ocean” in Singapore, with its aquarium, at the Equarius Hotel – WRS – World Resort Santosa –, its excellent dining and kitchen teams, its reception bar with a bartender who is a champion mixology, its wine list and its rich cellar, especially large bottles from Bordeaux and Burgundy. Sleek setting, well-spaced precious wooden table (twelve in total), menus between €65 and €195. Stars in sight…

A table © GP

Didier Anies in Cannes

Didier Aniès © DR

This discreet and traveling MOF, we followed him everywhere: in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, in the Grand Hotel, in Monaco, on the Nikki beach and in the Fairmont, in Switzerland, at the Glion school, last year. Here is now Didier Aniès back on the Côte d’Azur, responsible for giving spice to the cuisine of the Château de la Tour in Cannes, bought by the Groupe Nova Ace group, based in the vineyards of Bordeaux, owner of the Château Tour Saint-Fort in Saint-Estèphe and Château Grand Ormeau in Lalande-de Pomerol, eager to make a good impression in the festival city. The director of the Château de la Tour, Audrey Navarro, formerly of the Grand Hôtel du Cap Ferrat, finds here a talented accomplice who can win the star here.

Eric Trochon at Otto

Eric Trochon, © Stéphane de Bourgies

MOF 2011, teacher at the Ferrandi school, former chef of Sémilla, now self-employed and star, in the 5th in Paris, with his Korean girlfriend Mijin Ryu, under the sign of Solstice, Eric Trochon will sign the menu of a new restaurant in rue Mouffetard, located at No. 5 and created by two wine and cooking enthusiasts, Stephane Offner and Tony Alvarez-Parage. The place will be called ” Otto† On the program small relaxed tapas style dishes called “after-work” and dishes cooked on Japanese charcoal, the binchotan, plus an extensive wine list. The artistic direction of the place will be signed Helena Ichbiah, who has already worked at Sketch in London and at Troisgros in Ouches. Planned opening: July 2022.

Federica Ritteri, Princess of Tuscany

Federica Ritteri in the kitchen © GP

She is the new rising chef in Tuscany. Federica Ritteri, 34, purely self-taught, has turned Amor Vino, a modern trattoria on the ground floor of the Tenuta Fertuna, in Maremne, this Tuscan Camargue where great wines like Lodaï are produced, into an elite table. She rethinks, in the kitchen, traditional dishes in her modern, lively, funny, light way. His companion and companion, Silvia Sarcoli, enlivens the room with enthusiasm and blows a beautiful energy into the space. There is the contemporary setting, the unlined wooden tables, the wine racks, with the wines produced and sold by the Meregalli family, plus, on the plates, products from the maritime and land Maremne, collected from the area and, artfully selected by Federica . We enjoy this way exquisite marinated sardines flanked with caramelized onions, celery and pistachio, a traditional tomato bread soup called “pappa al pomodoro” seasoned with crispy pancetta, burrata and basil or vibrant spaghetti” aglio, olio and peperoncino with slipper lobster, which contribute to the enrichment of the regional repertoire. Here is definitely the good clear and new table to discover when traveling in Tuscany on the south side.

Roberto Rispoli in Dubai

Roberto Rispoli © Maurice-Rougemont

He was our foreign chef of the year at Pudlo 2011, played with Alain Ducasse in Andana, in the Tuscan Maremma, obtained a star at Il Carpaccio du Royal Monceau, where he lived for more than seven years. He learned to cook Greek alongside Andreas Mavrommatis, with whom he also won a macaron at the large Hellenic house named Andreas and his brothers Evagoras on rue Daubenton, before opening his own house “Mulino Muline” in the 10th. He had left Paris without drums or trumpets and we had lost sight of his Italian leprechaun, greedy, creative and talented. Born in Pompeii in Campania, Roberto Rispoli has replaced his compatriot Marco Garfagnini (now “culinary artist” of the Airelles group) as chef of the Jumeirah group in Dubai, led by José Silva, the charismatic former general manager from Le Four Seasons George V in Paris. In particular, Roberto is responsible for “Shimmers”, a table dedicated to Mediterranean cuisine, where Italian and Greek flavors meet.

In Gassin, two tables in front of the Villa Belrose

The Duc Ngo and Jimmy Coutel © AA

Overlooking the Gulf of Saint-Tropez, on the heights of Gassin, Villa Belrose is worthy of the charm of its panoramic position. But the gastronomic delights are not forgotten there, far from it. The residence, which once starred under the seal of Thierry Thiercelin and had the talented Pietro Volonte as its gastronomic watchtower, this year offers itself two chefs for the 2022 season. Firstly, Jimmy Coutel, 36, who was sous-chef from here. 2009 to 2014, when Chef de la Palmeraie played at Château de Valmer, in 2017, and who ran his own restaurant, Bergamote in Cavalaire-sur-Mer, became the chef of the house, offering his cuisine under the name “Petit Belrose” by the pool. The German group Althoff, owner of Villa Belrose, has also asked Berlin chef of Vietnamese descent The Duc Ngo to introduce his concept of short-lived restaurant “Club l’Indochine” every evening in the former restaurant Belrose, a combination of French gastronomy and flavors of Indochina. We’ll discuss it again later.

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