EAT WELL IN PARIS #67 — Restaurants, supermarkets, wine shops, pastries, cocktail bars… Our food critic is spreading the “T”. This week on the test bench: Milord, Jeanée Aimée and Alasena.
We like to come to the table of the Lelli brothers, half Breton, half Tuscan, who have the good taste to do it right, close to the BNF. With their accomplice Michele Rogazzo in the kitchen, they focus on invigorating French classics (excellent oeuf en meurette) and expertly prepared Italian recipes. The pasta is homemade, like this tender canederli (a kind of bread gnocchi from Northern Italy) generously topped with a refined langoustine bisque. On this rainy day, peposo brings a little comfort: this dish of beef shank, simmered for a long time in tomato sauce, red wine and pepper, is said to have been tasted as early as the 15th century by the workers who built Florence’s cathedral. A culinary monument to taste at least once in a lifetime, served with cubes of polenta that are golden brown on the outside and soft on the inside. Despite the tumult of the full house, we enjoy it until dessert, a very lightly frozen tiramisu. A nice list of Italian wines, homemade vinegars, vegetables from their Breton vegetable garden, which they use to make preserves and gherkins: attention to detail at a fair price that feels good.
12, rue de Tolbiac, 13th. 01 43 46 80 44. Mon-Fri 12:00-14:00 and 19:30-23:00 Lunch menu € 22-24, dinner € 39-55. Vegetarian option. Terrace. Research indip.
Jeanne Aimee s
Do not rely on the discreet entrance, in a street past the Notre-Dame-de-Lorette church: at the end of the corridor it is a large bright room under a glass roof that welcomes diners, in an amazing atmosphere of concrete raw and pink walls, paradoxically industrial and warm at the same time. In the open kitchen, we see Sylvain Parisot, a young chef who worked for Pascal Barbot at L’Astrance and Alexandre Couillon at La Marine (Noirmoutier), putting the last leaf of sorrel on a plate of preserved leek. Under sober titles in which seasonal products are central, the taste parades on the plates at first sight. Married to polenta, black olives and raw lemon, the white asparagus goes wild, while the grilled poultry takes on land-sea accents with fennel, cockles… and the unexpected crunch of pig’s ears, sliced into fleeting slats. Cheerful proposals, well prepared and coated with an excellent juice sauced with bread from the farm of Heurteloup, in the Yvelines. Normal: The bread comes from the father of the company’s co-founder, Dan Humphris, a neighborhood grocer, who also sourced the wines and some delicious produce. Soon a cocktail bar or even concerts should complete the offer. We will be back!
3, rue Bourdaloue, 9th. 09 73 88 48 44. Mon 19:30-21:30, Tues to Fri 12:15-14:00 and 19:30-22:00 Lunch menus €27-33. Vegetarian option. Reservation necessary.
In seven years of food reviews on these pages, this is the first time I have visited the Ile de la Cité. Far from the tourist traps and very close to a beautiful wisteria, this little canteen, run by four hands by Maria Ramirez and Ivan Avellaneda, is a godsend. Only one table inside, a few on the street: here you eat on the road or on a bench nearby. The dish of the day highlights the chicharron Crispy pork belly in Colombian style, served with a delicious peanut sauce. The baked potatoes that come with it are topped with a lemon mayo that is so delicious I ask for more, served with a smile. The sandwich with marinated chicken, flageolet hummus and raw vegetables, soft and well seasoned, is not a minus. As a bonus, Maria Ramirez, formerly of Ducasse, Gagnaire and Iñaki Aizpitarte, also masters desserts. The melting chocolate-chili pepper and the pisco flan testify to this, a nod to its Latin American origin. An address that will appeal to street food lovers and walkers looking for good deals nearby.
26, rue Chanoinesse, 4th. 09 53 87 22 74. Tues to Sat 12.00-15.00 Dishes €9-11, menus €11-15. Vegetarian option. Terrace.