La Crème de la Crème – Matthieu Garrel: “Only good cooking with exceptional products” | Gilles Pudlowski’s blog

With Julien Bissonnet and his pigeons “Renard Rouge” © MR

Matthew Garrel? A Breton from Loudéac who has never forgotten his Côtes d’Armor terroir. Born in 1971, formerly trained with Jean-Pïerre Crouzil in Plancoët, then with Jacques Guillo at the Auberge de Grand’Maison in Mur-de-Bretagne, he moved to Paris, worked for a while for Potel and Chabot, then for five years alongside Gérard Besson, the two-star MOF on rue du Coq Héron (where the three-star Franco-Japanese Kei Kobayashi is today), becomes his lieutenant there, learning the art of cooking and, in particular, the famous hare à la royal.

With the merchant who brings the mandarins © MR

But you don’t just come to Bélisaire in the fall, rue Marmontel, a stone’s throw from the Place de la Convention, the living heart of the 15th arrondissement of Paris and of which Matthieu Garrel has made his lair. He bought on February 14, 2001 (exactly 21 years ago, and impossible to forget the date of Valentine’s Day) what was a former bougnat where people came to get their coal, where we came to drink a white wine at the counter and a snack at the bar with ham and butter at any time. Matthieu will gradually turn it into a place that is both chic and relaxed, relaxed and friendly, gourmet and lively, open to all, keeping its traditional bistro feel while knowing how to keep its slate and its art up to date must keep.

The atmosphere of a quiet corner of the 15th © MR

Is it chic? † Democratizing gastronomy by making it a rogue bistro, but without selling the quality of our offerings. All the suppliers I have today are the ones serving the big restaurantshe adds, emphasizing: you can only eat well with exceptional products† Hence this chic “bistronomic” cuisine that he offers on the slate along a menu-carte for € 38, allowing himself some supplements, with his Quintin oysters, in Saint-Philibert, “back from Japan” style. , with sake and Japanese spices , are mayonnaise eggs that allow themselves a few grains of Madagascar caviar, these new potatoes with Breton seaweed and vegetables, with langoustines and bisque style gravy, as a cotriade.

The service of the pigeon © Maurice Rougemont

There is still this “Red Fox” pigeon from Mayenne, for which he calls on his favorite poultry and butcher, Julien Bissonnet from Boucheries Nivernaises, a duck from Challans, a Charolais beef, a free-range pig from Auvergne Parmentier is being treated. † With Rungis suppliers like those elsewhere, everything depends on trust. We have a tiny kitchen of 7 m2, with 2 cooks plus me, no vacuum cleaner, no freezer, except homemade ice cream. Impossible to cheat! †further notes Matthieu Garrel, adding: “ the people who come to us have a taste, know what they are going to find, eat well, drink well and trust us for the products of the day

The pigeon “Red Fox” in two baking © MR

Mushrooms and foie gras come from the Comptoir Corrézien, Japanese products, such as yuzu, ponzu or flying fish eggs (“tobikos”) from Delas, cream, butter, mature cheeses from the Ferme d’Alexandre, all at Rungis. Which Matthieu in Normandy completes at Gilles Bouleau, with yoghurt, curd cheese, cream and butter from “Fleurs de Ferme” in Saint-Denis-de-Villenette at Juvigny Val d’Andaine in Orne. The fish of this pure and hard Breton, which has a foothold in Finistère, is delivered directly from Loctudy, in the country of Bigouden, from “Terre de Pêche”. So langoustines, lobster, John Dory, turbot, pollack, brill or even “the old one”, this little-known rock fish with firm flesh, whose skin takes on the color of the seabed, allowing you to enjoy good seafood without breaking the bank .

Frosted mandarin © GP

People come to me to get a bowl of iodine‘, Matthieu remarks, nonsense that he is not only the game specialist that we have praised for years. For urgent fish purchases there is still the precious Delas in Rungis who, in addition to his groceries, has fishing rights at all auctions in France and can provide you with line fishing at a moment’s notice. For vegetables, he relies on Primeurs Passion where the lively Nathalie has an answer to every question. Matthieu completes his range of early vegetables with what he finds at the market in rue de la Convention, on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Such as these famous mandarins with which he can serve an excellent and so freshly frosted mandarin at the dawn of summer.

Langoustines with mayonnaise © GP

For offal, in addition to what Julien Bissonnet offers him (fortiche on kidneys or thymus), he goes to the neighboring Maison Vadorin rue Lecourbe (specially for the brain). Suffice it to say that his range is rich and that you can come and party with him in every season for a good price. Even if we already make an appointment for October 28, when the season of the hare à la royale begins… hunted in the Loiret near Artenay, and he will cook with four hands for the occasion with his master Gérard Besson.

Matthieu Garrel and Julien Bissonnet © MR

the Belisarius

2, rue Marmontel
Paris 15th
Such an. 01 48 28 62 24
Meals: 34 (formula, lunch), 38 (lunch), 38 (dinner), 42 (dinner) €
Menu : 40-55 €
Schedule : Until 22.30
Weekly closure. † Saturday afternoon, Sunday
Annual closing : 1 week between Christmas and New Year, 3 weeks in August
Nearest metro(s): Convention, Vaugirard

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