Whisper of Monday: Christophe Hay in place in Blois, in Lyon the Trois Dômes see their cuti, Cookovaya imports Greece to Saint-Tropez, Valentin Lambert at Château Voltaire, the female duo of Monte-Carlo Beach, Emile Cotte reveals herself, Micael Morais at home | Gilles Pudlowski’s blog

Christophe Hay in place in Blois

Christophe Hay in Blois © Fleur de Loire

Christophe Hay opens his big project on June 13 in Blois. Fleur de Loire, the brand new gourmet house rated “5 stars” and labeled Relais & Châteaux, is located in a historic building on the banks of the Loire, with a gourmet restaurant simply called “Christophe Hay”, a second restaurant called “Amour Blanc”, a hotel with 44 rooms, including 11 suites, plus a kiosk with pastries, a supermarket and a Sisley spa. In order to be as self-sufficient as possible in the supply of fruit and vegetables, the two-star Montlivault, which has just left its “Maison d’à Côté”, has invested 1.5 ha of beautiful and good alluvial land around the building. In particular, he will develop an asparagus greenhouse there with 50 referenced varieties, in order to revive the horticultural traditions of the Val de Blois. An apple conservatory also sees the light of day with the relocation of a historic variety, the rose apple. Its aim, Loire and ecological: to breathe new life into these flagship local products in the city center.

In Lyon, the Trois Dômes saw their cuti

Christian Lherm © Maurice Rougemont

A loss of a star who went undetected or almost in the media last March – although not by much? That of the Trois Dômes in Lyon, the gastronomic and panoramic table on the top floor of the Sofitel, recently directed by Vincent Galoche of the Novotel Ottawa. Additional victim of the Michelin decision: the experienced chef Christian Lherm officially ” free from work“, in the process of exfiltration. A rejuvenated team, led by his second Jérémy Ravier, with a formula that is both regional and contemporary, must be set up, with the help of the great gastronomic advisor of the Accor group, Thierry Giraud, nicknamed internal, ” the dentistit hurts at first and then it gets better“, says the caption around it). Especially since the competitor and direct neighbor of the house, the Intercontinental of the Hôtel Dieu is a hit with its chic, design, new style Lyonnaise brasserie and non-starred, under the name Epona, with Chef Mathieu Charrois Currently closed since early April, the Three Domes should reopen, with his brand new concept version “young, Lyonnais and modern, cheaper and more accessibleat the beginning of September.

Cookovaya imposes on Greece in Saint-Tropez

Periklis Koskinas © DR

The Pan Dei Palais in Saint-Tropez changes genre. We knew this hotel gem in the heart of the resort, called Relais & Châteaux, which today flies the “Les Airelles” flag, in an Asian fusion version, then Italian, with in particular the talented Daniele Codini. Here he now wears the colors of Greece with the Athens Cookovaya team. This new Greek house, led by five creative chefs, has delegated here its maestro Periklis Koskinas, a native of Corfu, who will deliver a cuisine of the sun, inspired by Hellenic flavors and products from all over the Mediterranean with a beautiful bent to the gardens and the sea, follow quickly.

Valentin Lambert at Château Voltaire

Valentin Lambert © GP

L’Emil (without e!) is the brand new, chic and gourmet brasserie of the no less recent hotel Château Voltaire, founded in the rue Saint-Roch, near the Opéra in Paris, instead of the former headquarters of the fashion house Zadig & Voltaire, of which only the second term has survived. The place has art deco chic, mixed with beautiful wood, stained glass, floor mosaics, beautiful bar, lovely lounges, reminiscent of the traditional “The Ivy” not far from Covent Garden in London, plus a tempting menu, in the old, classic dishes mixed with that of the taste of the day. At the wheel of the stoves, the young Valentin Lambert, 25, spent at the Atelier Robuchon Saint Germain des Près, then five years next to Christophe Moret, in Shangri La, in the former two-star hotel l’Abeille , then in the fusion brewery Bauhinia. The score he composes and deftly simmers in Brasserie l’Emil is French, but with nods to the Mediterranean, but also to the gardens of Provence and the Riviera. We’ll talk about it soon. The good news: the house is open every day!

The female duo of Monte-Carlo . beach

Melanie Serre and Simona Boccia © AA

This is the secret weapon of the beach of Monte-Carlo, directed by the dynamic Danièle Garcelon, for restaurant Elsa to regain the star that Manon Fleury had lost here. At the wheel of the stoves, a female duo composed of Mélanie Serre and Simona Boccia. The first, well known to our readers, draws the sea and vegetable menu, 100% organic and locavore, but goes back and forth between Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, opposite Monaco, and Paris, where she runs her table in the 5th arrondissement with Bernard Gillou-Valentin, de Louis, Wines. On the spot it is Simone who adheres to it. This native of Naples, who spent with Alfonso Iaccarino the two stars of Santa Agata Sue due Golfi, Don Alfonso 1890, as well as with the Geranium, the three stars of Rasmus Kofoed in Copenhagen, had already worked with Mélanie at the Atelier de Joel Robuchon in Paris. The sunny and marine cuisine she offers for her first menu reflects well her personality, open-hearted, cheerful, lively, light, both vegetable and marine, bursting with flavors and respect for the environment and the seasons. To know everything, click here.

Emile Cotte reveals herself

It’s called “Baca’v – Eating Limousin in Paris with Chef Emile Cotte” and it’s the first book by the former chef of Drouant, who notably spent time at Meating and Taillevent, telling his story. Rethinking his beautiful classical spirit, his itinerary, from his native Limousin to the Parisian restaurants where he trained, rubbing himself with great names like Frédéric Anton and Alain Solivérès, created his bistro awarded with a gourmet bib at the Michelin, the Baca ‘v in the 5th, where he offers recipes that have always been revised in his own way (veal sweetbreads, kidney, beef cheek and other rice puddings): Emile Cotte reveals herself there with humor, candor and sincerity. We find the beautiful texts by Thiphaine Illouz, the beautiful photos by Stéphane Riss and the serious editorial follow-up by Dominique Brugière. It is to say that they have come together to make this beautiful book of hours and gastronomic confession a success, with a nod to good humor. Like this quote from Antoine Blondin that appears as the motto for the man Emile: ” in Limousin, we don’t have caviar, but we have chestnuts

Micael Morais at home

Micael Morais with Tomy Gousset © GP

He was the sommelier emeritus of Tomy Gousset with whom he climbed the ladder leading to the first star. Now he starts for himself and makes his house. It will be a dining cellar that pays tribute to its roots. Michael Morais, master of the harbor, has become the best Parisian ambassador for wines from the Douro, Setubal and elsewhere. The name of his new home: CasAlegria. And his address: 139 rue Cardinet in the 17th arrondissement. It will be a place for come and beber (meaning ‘drink and eat’ in Portuguese). Wine bar, but also eclectic cellar and delicacies around Portugal with seventy percent Lusitanian wines and the rest in French vintages and wines from all over the world: this is the program. Opening: end of June/beginning of July. Nevertheless, ties have not been broken with Tomy Gousset and his various residencies (Tomy & Co in the 5th, Hugo & Co in the 5th, Marso in the 13th) for whom he continues to apply his expertise for the wine section.

Leave a Comment